On the trail of German cuisine at Elbe On the trail of German cuisine at Elbe (July 28, 2000)

By Jim Harrington

The Mid-Peninsula is a diner's paradise. You can find almost every type of cuisine within a few miles' radius. However, one cuisine that needs a stronger showing is German. Where did all the authentic German restaurants go?

I'm throwing out the call: Support your local German restaurant!

Elbe, in downtown Palo Alto, is one of the few good German restaurants around. It garners points for serving fine German food, although one knock against Elbe is that its decor should visually promote its German heritage. Aside from a few beer steins, Elbe is pretty generic-looking.

On the other hand, visit on a Friday or Saturday night and you'll know from the sounds that Elbe is German. Arnie Krenn, one of the best accordion players in the business, provides genuine Teutonic background music.

As one would expect, Elbe is a great place to drink beer. Stick to the German beers--order the crisp Spaten Lager, light Bitburger, or the yeasty Franziskaner Hefeweiszbier.

For appetizers, try the baked Bavarian brie ($6.50), which is served with a slice of Black Forest ham, whole roasted garlic and toasted walnuts. The sausage sampler ($6) is plentiful in size, if not in variety. Only Polish sausage and bratwurst are served, along with two hot mustards.

Whatever you do, make sure that potato pancakes reach your table. Elbe's pancakes are as good as any you'll find this side of the Atlantic. They are incredibly buttery and moist on the inside, with a hard, crisp exterior. Cover them with sour cream and salt, or take the road to sweetness with a big dollop of apple sauce.

For the main course, it's hard to beat the beloved wiener schnitzel ($12.50), a breaded veal cutlet served with lemon beurre blanc sauce, roasted potatoes and sauteed vegetables. For something different, try the jagerschnitzel ($13.50), lean, dense medallions of pork loin sauteed and served in a sweet Burgundy and mushroom sauce. Spatzle and warm, tangy red cabbage come with the dish.

Other favorites include the sauerbraten ($13), tender roasted beef marinated in vinaigrette, which is served with a tart sauce, potato pancakes and red cabbage; and Odenwalder hasenpfeffer ($14), farm-raised rabbit roasted and simmered in a light cognac sauce.

For dessert, there are plenty of continental choices vying for your attention (tiramisu, creme brulee) but stay true to Deutschland and order the fruit strudel or German chocolate cake.

Supporting my local German restaurant is a cause I can truly get behind. More potato pancakes, please.

Elbe, 117 University Ave., Palo Alto; (650) 321-3319. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. daily. Credit cards are accepted.