Rhapsody in beef at Clarke's Rhapsody in beef at Clarke's (August 11, 2000)

By Jim Harrington

There are burgers and there are Clarkesburgers. If you don't believe there is a difference between the two, then I don't believe you've been to Clarke's.

Clarke's Charcoal Broiler has set the standard for burgers on the Peninsula since 1945. There are other good burger spots in the area such as Kirk's in Palo Alto and Boardwalk in Los Altos, but Clarke's on El Camino Real in Mountain View is still the burger joint to beat.

Not to belabor the point (perhaps too late?) but if your idea of a good hamburger is the Double Double at In-N-Out then you owe it to yourself to visit Clarke's.

Clarke's cooks its beautiful beef the way it should be done: barbecued to order over a charcoal flame. You'll smell the smoke as you walk up to the humble-looking diner. The burgers are cooked medium unless you state a different preference. The fact that the meat is cooked over charcoal rather than fried on a greasy griddle is apparent in every bite.

Order at the counter and then grab a seat at one of the comfortable tables in the patio areas. The restaurant isn't much more than a shack, rustic and well-worn, but the vibe is unlike anything else you will find in Mountain View.

The rule of thumb at Clarke's is to keep it simple when ordering burgers. That's not because the elaborate combos don't work, it's just that the meat is of such high quality that you really don't want anything to take away from the beefy flavor.

Clarke's does make it difficult to play it straight with such mouth-watering combinations as the 49er burger ($7.40), with its two slices of cheese and mushrooms on a sourdough roll; the patty melt ($6), with American cheese and sautまd onions on rye bread; and the Hawaiian burger ($6.75), a beef patty marinated in teriyaki sauce and served with American cheese and pineapple.

Although those combos are delightful, a plain Clarkesburger with cheese ($5.30) is even better.

I commend Clarke's for having the good sense to use 1/3-pound patties. Quarter-pound burgers don't provide enough meat, while 1/2-pound burgers often overwhelm the bun. Clarke's finds the perfect medium, letting you taste the beef without overpowering any additions such as cheese, ketchup, and mustard.

The burgers are so good that I hesitate to recommend any other entree for fear the reader will visit Clarke's and miss the beef. But the rib sandwich ($4.95) is first rate, a big piece of boneless pork rib slathered with tangy barbecue sauce and placed between the halves of a doughy French roll. The Louisiana hot sausage ($4.95), also served on a French roll, will not disappoint.

Clarke's also rates highly with its array of side dishes. The french fries ($2.75 basket, $1.20 regular order) are soft, cooked to a light golden color, and actually taste like potatoes. The fried zucchini ($2.95) is lightly battered, crisp on the outside and moist on the inside. The beer-battered mushrooms ($2.95) also get rave reviews.

Finally, if you think you can possibly make room for more, order the chocolate milkshake ($3.50). This creamy, dreamy drink of decadence is as good as the burgers. And that's really saying something.

Clarke's Charcoal Broiler, 615 West El Camino Real, Mountain View; (650) 967-0851. Hours: Saturdays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Fridays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. There is also a Clarke's Charcoal Broiler located at 680 Rancho Shopping Center, Los Altos. Credit cards are accepted.