Authentic south Indian fare at Udupi Palace Authentic south Indian fare at Udupi Palace (December 15, 2000)

By Joni Ratts

Too often when we think about dining out we gravitate to familiar places, and avoid trying somewhere new and different. But when we do, we can be pleasantly surprised. Udupi Palace, which specializes in vegetarian Indian cuisine, did just that for me.

I have limited experience in Indian restaurants, but on the recommendation of an acquaintance, four of us ventured out to try some southern Indian fare.

The exterior of Udupi Palace has a commercial look to it. The interior, a large white room with four gold columns beneath a coffered ceiling, is also plain. A few small niches contain statues and a large piece of art hangs on the rear wall. The chairs and tile floor are white, the table tops black granite. It is a simple, utilitarian space. We were there on a chilly night, and every time the doors opened, there was a cold draft. But by the time our food arrived, we were not uncomfortable.

The menu lists 24 items. Only the Coke and coffee were familiar to me. The daily special (#1) and the combo (#2) had explanations; the other 20 were a mystery. We ordered Cokes ($1.25) and a mango lassi, a yogurt and mango pulp smoothie-type drink ($2.50) and perused the possible choices.

Nicholas, our waiter, was extremely helpful and friendly. I think he was amused at our questions, but he smiled and guided us in our choices.

The #1 Udupi Special Thali ($8.95) is like a tasters' choice. It is a round tray with individual dishes around the edge and paratha (bread) in the center. Under the paratha is a spicy hot pickle mixture condiment. The small dishes contained korma, a mixture of vegetables and potato in a mild rich sauce; okra curry, turmeric yellow and medium spicy; rasam, a mild reddish soup; curd, a thin yogurt sauce; the rice of the day, which had eggplant and spices; and kheer, a rice pudding with cashews, pistachios, raisins, and cardamom. This is served with papd, a thin, crispy, deep-fried crepe made with lentil flour, and a side dish of iddly, a steamed white rice cake ($3.75 a la carte).

The rice resembles Chinese sticky more than basmati. The vegetables in this dish change daily. The eggplant rice was too mushy for my taste; it had a variety of tastes but was not as appealing as other selections on the menu.

Selection no. 12, the Mysore Masala Dosa ($5.75), is like a large thin pancake made with rice flour and brushed with hot chili paste before cooking. Inside the folded dosa is a delicious mixture of potatoes and peas. It is served with two dipping sauces: a red medium spicy sauce and a white coconut-and-cardamom chutney. The chutney tastes cool and refreshing, but does have an afterburn. This dish is a nice blend of texture and taste. We would order it again.

Selection no. 14, the Special Rava Masala Dosa ($6.95), is a thin, crispy crepe folded over the same potato and pea mixture. The fried dosa melts in your mouth. It's a little more difficult to eat with your fingers than the Mysore Masala Dosa. It is served with the same dipping sauces. The combination of textures was excellent.

The unanimous winner is #19, the Vegetable Uthappam ($5.75). This is a soft pancake made with rice flour and topped with red onions, tomato, peas, coriander, and shredded carrot, served with the same dipping sauces. It is attractive on the plate and delicious in the mouth.

I think the individual dishes were the best choices. The coffee was a disappointment. It appeared to be instant with hot milk.

Be sure to take some saunf, a mouth freshener, as you leave. It is a dry, chewy blend of fennel, coconut, and candy.

Overall, this is a good place to eat. The food is filling and delicious. The staff is delightful, friendly, and efficient. You never feel rushed despite the turnover of diners; however, this is not a place for lingering conversation.

I think the Udupi Palace will be a pleasant surprise for you, too.

Udupi Palace. Vegetarian Indian Cuisine. 976 E. El Camino Real, Sunnyvale. Phone: (408) 830-9600. Credit cards (over $15). Reservations accepted. Lunch: Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., 11:30 a.m. to 3:45 p.m. Dinner: 5:30-10:00 p.m. daily.