Spice and variety at Mango Cafe Spice and variety at Mango Cafe (December 22, 2000)

By Karen Alden

If you want to reminisce about a past trip to the Caribbean or get a taste of a future trip there, you'll find no better place to do it than at Mango Cafe in Palo Alto. Mango Cafe specializes in the cuisines of Jamaica and Trinidad and Tobago, but you can also sample the flavors of other Caribbean islands there.

Mango Cafe's menu focuses on chicken, beef, goat, bean, and rice dishes offered as appetizers, "tastes," or entrees.

Appetizers include very spicy marinated Jamaican Jerked Joints and mild Curried Joints of five or 11 chicken drumettes ($2.95, $5.95). A Jamaican beef or chicken patty, a baked turnover with a flaky crust stuffed with spicy beef or mildly spicy chicken, costs $2.75.

My dinner companion and I ordered four small "tastes" portions: curried goat ($4.75), curried chicken ($3.25), Rasta ($2.95), and Pelau ($3.25). The very spicy, slightly hot, curried goat is a tender and rich Jamaican dish. The milder curried chicken, which was subtle, came with a savory sauce. The Rasta is a non-meat dish of pigeon peas, black-eyed peas, and red beans with cho-cho (island parlance for choyote). Trinidad Pelau is chicken, pigeon peas, and black olives cooked with coconut milk. All dishes are served over white rice and can be ordered as entrees that provide larger portions and include a green salad with Dijon Vinaigrette dressing ($6.25 to $9.95). Chicken Roti, a Trinidadian dish, consists of curried chicken, potatoes, carrots, celery, and chick peas wrapped in thin griddled bread similar to a tortilla ($6.25).

Mango Cafe also offers three combination dinners that include a variety of the meat dishes and salad. The Calypso has Chicken Roti and palm heart salad for $7.95; the Whole Island includes a beef or chicken patty, both curried and jerked joints, and Chicken Pelau for $11.50. The Reggae consists of two patties, jerked joints, and salad for $9.95.

Vegetarians have a choice of the Rasta Pea Cookup, Vegetable Roti, or the Ital combination plates, all served with rice and salad for $5.50 to $8.95.

The sides dishes are varied: baked plantain ($1.75); rice and peas, consisting of red beans, rice, coconut milk and spices ($1.95); the house mango chutney (95 cents); and Roti bread ($1.65). We tried the baked plantain, which tasted much like sweet potato, and the mango chutney, which we had as a condiment with the other dishes. It was nicely balanced between sweet and tart and complemented the meal.

Mango's Friday lunch menu offers a selection of its dinner selections priced from $4.75 to $8.95.

Fruit juice smoothies are another specialty of the house, and there are nine to choose from ($2.95 to $3.25). Try Ocho Rios with guanabana, banana and lime; Dragon's Mouth with tamarind, lime and ginger; or Erin Point, a concoction of guava, lime, and pineapple.

Other beverages include tropical sodas, nectars, coffee, mango-flavored black tea ($1.25 to $1.85), and beers ($3.50 to $3.75). A Chilean Chardonnay and a California Merlot can be purchased by the glass ($4.50/$4.95) or bottle ($19.95/$21.95). There is a $10 corkage free for those who wish to bring their own wine.

For dessert try the bread pudding or sweet-potato pudding. These desserts are dense, moderately spicy-sweet, and served warm with whipped cream. They are delicious and filling.

Dining at Mango Cafe is a chance to try something different. With its casual atmosphere and satisfying meals, it is reminiscent of a true Caribbean eatery -- all that is missing is the sound of waves lapping on hot sand and gulls calling overhead.

Mango Cafe, 435 Hamilton Ave., Palo Alto; Phone: 324-9443. Hours: Dinner Mon.-Thu. 6-9:30 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 6-10 p.m.; lunch is served only on Fridays from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Credit cards accepted. No personal checks. A 15 percent gratuity is added to parties of five or more.