Search the Archive:

Issue date: January 12, 2001

More than superb Italian cuisine awaits diners at Caffe Riace, a secluded eatery on quiet Sheridan Avenue in Palo Alto. Manager/owner Maurizio Carrubba (right) and chef Mario Alessi take a moment to enjoy the atmosphere, with its courtyard, sculpture and paintings to please the eye.

@vcredit:Josh Keithley

Caffe Riace can be hard to find, but is worth the look Caffe Riace can be hard to find, but is worth the look (January 12, 2001)

By Karen Alden

I was told Caffe Riace Ristorante Italiano is Palo Alto's best-kept secret--and it's true. This secluded little gem of an eatery is located on Sheridan Avenue on a largely residential street. Tucked between an apartment building and a bank, its courtyard entrance can be hard to find, but Caffe Riace is definitely worth looking for.

The restaurant's indoor area is minuscule, but tables are placed in a courtyard with huge potted trees and plants, bronze sculpture, and a lovely water fountain. There are patio heaters, so courtyard eating comfortable is even in December.

Caffe Riace's food is superb. The meals are cooked with simple balanced seasoning that lets the wonderful flavors of the fresh and succulent ingredients come through.

After you are seated, bread and a tasty herb garlic olive oil is brought to your table. The antipasti menu is large. Choices include Bruschetta, consisting of toasted ciabatta (an Italian bread) topped with fresh tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, oregano, and basil ($5.50); Melenzane all'aceto, fried eggplant topped with fresh garlic, ricotta salata cheese, olive oil, oregano, and balsamic vinaigrette ($6.95). Try the Antipasto Siciliano, parmigiano, olives, sun-dried tomatoes, prosciutto, and melenzane ($8.95 per person); and Antipasto Riace, a combination bruschetta, caprese, melenzane, and roasted peppers ($7.95 per person). I ordered the appetizer special of smoked salmon on fresh greens dressed with light olive oil herb balsamic vinaigrette, which was delicious.

Caffe Riace offers traditional salads, but my favorite is the Insalata Siciliana with oranges, green and red onion, crushed red pepper, and a balsamic vinaigrette. It bursts in the mouth with an interesting combination of sweet, hot, tangy flavors. The Insalata di spinaci e funghi is spinach, mushrooms, and ricotta salata cheese tossed in warm pancetta with sambuca vinaigrette. This vinaigrette with anise liquor sambuca is an inspiration of subtle and tantalizing flavors.

The menu lists eleven different pastas. My dining companion selected the Tortellini con Panna ($12.95), cheese-stuffed tortellini in a cream sauce with peas and prosciutto. It was prepared al dente with a nicely seasoned but not too rich cream sauce. I chose one of the evening specials, veal piccata with white wine, capers and lemon. The preparation was perfect, and it was served with roast potato slices and spaghetti dressed with fresh garlic, parsley, olive oil, parmigiano, and crushed red pepper flakes ($19.95).

Other entrees listed on the menu are calamari steak with lemon, white wine, and capers ($14.95); Pollo alla Puttanesca, grilled chicken breast topped with olives, fresh tomato, and capers ($14.95); Salsiccia alla Siciliana, fresh homemade grilled Sicilian sausage ($16.95); and Bisteccha alla Franco, twin cuts of Black Angus rib-eye steak, grilled and topped with field mushrooms and green onion ($18.95).

We chose the restaurant's recommended Italian red wine to accompany our meal, a 1995 Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella ($40.00) that was medium-bodied and well-balanced, with a nice nose and light finish. It was a good choice as it complemented but did not compete with or overpower the subtle flavors of our entrees.

For dessert we had a special not listed on the menu--Affogato ($7.50), consisting of Caffe Riace's homemade hazelnut gelato over which fresh (in our case decaf) espresso is poured at the table. This dessert is simple but coffee lovers will find it divine.

The Gelato Riace, homemade ice cream, is a specialty of the house and is offered in several flavors. Tiramisu ($6.50) is also available and is very good. Order Vino Dolce or Port to round out your meal.

Caffe Riace's lunch menu offers the same fare as dinner, but for few dollars less.

One of Caffe Riace's charms is its competent, congenial, and enthusiastic staff. One caution though: unless you dine very early, reservations are a necessity.

If you enjoy a unique setting, good service, and well-prepared Italian food, this restaurant will become one of your favorites. Caffe Riace does not disappoint. Buon appetito!

Cafe Riace Ristorante Italiano, 200 Sheridan Ave., Palo Alto. There is a small underground parking lot across the street. Phone: 328-0407. Hours: Lunch, Mon.-Sun., 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner, Mon.-Sun., 5-10 p.m. Credit cards accepted. Web page at www.cafferiace.com