You can't go wrong at The Armenian Gourmet You can't go wrong at The Armenian Gourmet (November 30, 2001)

By Joni Ratts

The Armenian Gourmet, although not fancy, has a comfortable, homey appeal. This is a friendly restaurant, where all ages are welcome. Its small size, responsive staff and unpretentious atmosphere create an air of hospitality that made me feel like I'd just dropped in to visit an old friend for dinner.

While its décor of seasonal decorations and modest table settings may be unassuming and plain; the food is not. It is exceptional cuisine; the kind you'd find in a family kitchen. The reason is Aram Janjigian, owner and chef, and his talent for Armenian cooking. His pleasure in sharing his passion for good food with his customers has been delighting diners for the last twenty-seven years.

Armenian Gourmet's humble beginnings were in a strip mall storefront, until Janjigian moved the restaurant into a separate building at its current location, at the edge of the same shopping center.

The benefits include a more attractive exterior, additional space, and better parking, which pleased his customers. On a recent Friday evening it was quite evident that many of the diners were faithful regulars. Two of my dining companions have been customers for over two decades.

The restaurant only accommodates about 15 tables, but it handles several seatings very efficiently. The night I was there a steady stream of customers came and went, yet it never seemed crowded. However, I was told that lunch is a particularly busy time, and that tables fill up fast. The restaurant's location, near several large office complexes, makes it a popular choice for the lunch scene.

The menu is not difficult to navigate, and all selections have a description of ingredients. The dinner and lunch menus are quite similar with the exception that dinner entrees include hummus, tossed salad and hot bread, making the price of the dinner meal ($13.50 - $17.50) a great deal.

The wine list, mostly California wines, represents a variety of reds, whites and roses. We selected a carafe of the house red, Inglenook Navalle burgundy ($9.00), which turned out to be a decent choice, smooth with good body and without a sharp taste. There is a wide assortment of beer available, both draft and bottled. The beverage list also includes Tahn, a diluted yogurt drink ($2.00).

For starters they served a small dish of hummus (pureed garbanzo beans) with a basket of soft pita bread for dipping. This was not your "run-of-the-mill" hummus. The texture was smooth and creamy with a bit of added olive oil, a sprinkle of paprika and a snip of parsley for garnish. I could have made a meal out of it; it was yummy!

One of my friends ordered Baba Ghanouj ($4.50), a fire-roasted eggplant dip, and Sarma ($5.50), grape leaves stuffed with beef. The dip was a larger serving than the hummos accompaniment and had a rich, smoky essence with chunks of roasted eggplant. We all sampled it and agreed it was full of flavor, but no match to the simple hummos. The grape leaves, also shared, were not spicy and had good taste and texture.

A good-sized, crisp garden salad with lettuce, feta cheese, red onions, tomatoes, cucumber wedges, sliced mushrooms and Greek olives followed. The dressing with a pleasant blend of herbs and, I believe, a touch of mint, had a sweet and tart combination that was very appealing to the palate and made a nice compliment to the salad ingredients.

I couldn't resist trying the Jajukh ($3.00), cold yogurt and cucumber soup. This is a favorite dish of mine, and Janjigian's version was not disappointing. It was refreshing and had superb flavor. The yogurt definitely tasted homemade and was laced with many pieces of crisp, icy cold cucumber.

Each course was served promptly, and we never felt rushed. Florence Janjigian manages to keep everything running smoothly and efficiently while maintaining a delightful sense of humor.

All of our entrees, served on simple white pottery, were attractive and appetizing. The sautéed beef dish ($14.50) was an ample serving of beef strips mixed with onions, tomatoes, mushrooms and green peppers served on a bed of rice. The rice was tender with bits of sautéed onion, the beef moist and savory. The serving was almost more than I could eat.

The John Michel Special ($16.50) was a combination plate of two shish kebabs, lamb and ground beef, and sautéed beef. The broiled slices of lamb were perfectly cooked _ light pink and extremely tender. The broiled ground beef, Lulleh kebab, was mildly seasoned and had good texture. This combination dish was a definite favorite at our table, and a good representation of the overall menu.

Although none of us had room for dessert _ baklava ($2.50) and cheesecake ($3.00) _ they both looked tempting. Coffee, hot and strong, finished off our meal.

The servings at Armenian Gourmet are generous enough to share, and containers are available for leftovers.

If you are looking for a pleasant dining experience without exceeding your budget, the Armenian Gourmet is an excellent choice. If you're not yet familiar with this type of cuisine and want to widen your dining horizons, you can't go wrong here.

At the bottom of the menu are the words "Anoush Uhlah" _ translated, this means good eating. At the end of an evening Janjigian, with a bighearted laugh and an even bigger smile, can often be seen stopping at tables to greet diners - translated, this means thank you for coming.

Finding a restaurant to match the warmth and flavor of Aram Janjigian's hospitality and menu won't be an easy task. Try it; you may end up one of Armenian Gourmet's faithful regulars yourself.
The Armenian Gourmet. 929 E. Duane, Sunnyvale. Phone: (408) 732-3910. Hours: Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:00 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Dinner: Wed.-Fri. 5:30 to 9 p.m. Credit cards/no checks. $7.00 minimum (drinks not included). Parking available.}