Siam Garden makes its mark with signature dish Siam Garden makes its mark with signature dish (June 14, 2002)

By Kelsey Lane

I don't care if you call it the nam tod club or coconut shrimp roulette. All I know is it's an elitist group of lucky people in the know. Perhaps you're a member? There are only two ways to join the group. The first is to wander into Siam Garden in Menlo Park on a rare night when they're serving prawns with crispy rice (a.k.a. nam tod ) -- lightly deep-fried prawns with crispy coconut-rice balls, cilantro, greens, citrus and chilies all tossed together ($10.95). The juxtaposition of crispy and soft textures and spicy and tangy flavors is the pinnacle of Thai eating. Over the past few years, I have succeeded in landing there twice on a nam tod night. By my figures, there's a one in four chance. According to assistant manager Ly Pang, nam tod runs as a special two weeks in a row every two months -- a rarity owing to its labor-intensive preparation. But there is an easier, surefire way to join the "club," and 70 people have found the secret. Pang will be happy to take your name and put you on her list. As soon as it's on the menu again, she'll call you and the multitudes of other informed regulars. Take this advice to heart, because it has taken me three years of hits and misses, plus some undercover investigative reporting, to get the scoop. Even on a night when nam tod is not offered, Siam Garden is a decent bet. Although the atmosphere is slim, seating is comfortable at vinyl booths and tables. Service is usually fine, but occasionally a little slow. Open since 1987, the restaurant features cuisine from the Bangkok area, known for food a little less spicy than other regions. Both owner Sukit Tach and Chef Bo Chan have maintained its status as a solid Thai restaurant. The staff is flexible and will, when possible, prepare dishes to suit your heat level. Two pleasing appetizers were the satay and the kung tod (deep fried prawns). Satay, featuring either skewered chicken or pork, comes with a mild peanut curry sauce ($7.95). I was impressed the sauce was less greasy and smoother in consistency than in many other local Thai restaurants. The prawns were of generous size, had a crispy coating and came with a sweet and sour sauce that benefited from a few drops of soy sauce ($8.95). Each starter was enough for two to share. Tom yum kung (hot and sour soup) was not the best version I've ever tasted -- the broth was overly murky and the prawns a bit tough -- but fine nonetheless ($3.50/cup). However, the mushroom salad, with onions, chilies, lime, mint and cilantro was refreshingly pleasant. Featuring standard button mushrooms and devoid of expensive protein, I found it pricey at $8.50. Still, there was enough for two people to share as a starter. In the main dish department, beef with cashew nuts won my heart ($10.95). The cashews had soaked up just enough of the garlicky sauce to be flavorful, yet still crunchy. And the Napa cabbage was lightly charred, reminiscent of pan-Asian fried noodle dishes. The beef was a lean cut, typical of the restaurant's high-quality cuts of meat and poultry. Mus-u-man beef -- a curry dish with peanuts, potatoes, onions and tomatoes -- was oily but enjoyable, with a robust curry flavor ($8.95). Another curry dish, the panang chicken (featuring white and dark meat, basil, chile and garlic in a coconut milk sauce), was not too oily. It had few vegetables but lots of chicken and boasted an explosion of heat ($8.95). Chicken with Thai basil was also chock full of white and dark meat, with few vegetables -- nicely sufficient in taste. In this rendition, the sauce was very light and garlicky and not at all greasy ($8.95). Siam Garden's menu is very extensive, and each category of poultry, meat, vegetables, noodles, and vegetarian dishes offers a long list of options. For dessert, be a renegade and try the plum wine ($4.25) instead of traditional Thai desserts. Morgang , a coconut cream custard, was billed as a Thai flan but arrived slightly gritty in texture, in thick clumps, instead of having a smooth, creamy texture ($2.95). The Thai coconut ice cream, made from fresh coconut, was refreshing, and had the crystallized consistency of an ice milk ($2.95). Fried bananas are also featured. Siam Garden makes an effort to offer values to customers. For a full dinner, choose any entree and then add $6 to the price; for that, you'll get soup, satay, tofu tod (deep fried tofu cake), Thai salad (a typical salad but with the addition of tofu and peanut sauce) and jasmine rice. The luncheon combination specials are an even better bargain. For about $7.50 total, you can enjoy a main course, pork satay, tod mun (deep fried fish cakes), pad Thai (nicely chewy texture and satisfying) and jasmine rice. See you there during nam tod season. I'm a member of the club. Siam Garden, 1143 Crane St., Menlo Park (650) 853-1143 Hours: Mon.-Fri. lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner 5-10 p.m.; Sat. dinner 5-10 p.m.; Sun. dinner 5-9 p.m. Atmosphere: Not much ambiance to speak of, but it's pretty clean. Vinyl booths and tables. Highlights: If you're lucky, sample the nam tod -- prawns with crispy rice ($10.95). Otherwise, standard dishes such as beef with cashew nuts ($10.95) do not disappoint. A nice finish is the plum wine ($4.25). Reservations: Yes, but usually not necessary Credit Cards: Yes Parking: Lot and street Alcohol: Yes Takeout: Yes, and delivery Highchairs: Yes Wheelchair Access: Yes Banquet: Yes Outdoor seating: No Noise Level: Low Bathroom cleanliness: Average