Ay Ay Ay Ay Ay Ay (August 23, 2002)

Sombreros off to this fun Mexican spot in Los Altos Sombreros off to this fun Mexican spot in Los Altos (August 23, 2002)

By Kelsey Lane

Jaime Carpenter, along with his wife, Meredith, has owned Ay Ay Ay in Los Altos for a little over three years now. But the Mexican restaurant is not the same today as when it opened.

The couple originally wanted, Carpenter said, for their debut menu to consist of authentic, regional Mexican dishes. But after giving that a try, the couple gave in to a more standardized Mexican menu -- but only partially.

"We had people coming in here saying, 'Uh, where's the enchiladas?' -- so we wanted to keep them happy," Carpenter said. "Now half the dishes on the menu are for gringos."

There's no doubt in my mind he's right. I know those people who live and die by their favorite burrito; God forbid they'd ever try something different. And the burritos, enchiladas and tacos do solidly hold their own at Ay Ay Ay.

But it's with the other half of the menu that this restaurant shines, showcasing dishes with unique combinations not easily found at area Mexican restaurants.

We landed at Ay Ay Ay on a warm Thursday evening -- perfect for enjoying the outdoor seating and a salty-sour house margarita ($4.50).

The complimentary thick and crunchy tortilla chips were paired with a unique salsa, in which cumin married with tomatoes and chipotle peppers for a smoky treat. According to Carpenter, the salsa also contains jalapeno, serrano and habanero chiles -- plus the staff freshly grinds a portion of the dried chiles. I'm a wimp when it comes to heat, so luckily I did not find the salsa overly spicy (if you like fiery foods, I'm sure they'd be happy to customize the dishes).

I raved about my barbecue lobster tostada ($12.95). The ample platter carried two large tostadas, piled high with a cabbage slaw, romaine lettuce, pico de gallo and langoustine (shrimp-sized) lobsters. A tangy chipotle-chile barbecue sauce, sour cream and guacamole topped it all off. Summer evenings rarely have it so good. This refreshing dish lives on in my memory for its spice, sweetness and contrasting textures. A different experience was had by my husband, who ordered the chicken enchilada platter ($11.95) and found it a normal rendition.

Other trips resulted in positive experiences. Servers hustled back and forth with food and drink to please our every wish. This is a great place to go when you are short on time.

Complaints were met with accommodation. The Carpenters, who for five years have also operated Jocco's, located a block away, seem to have trained the staff well. One dish I didn't care for -- the Yucatan salad with a creamy but fishy tasting garlic dressing ($6.95) -- was taken off my bill without rudeness.

But I have no complaints about the guacamole ($6). Chunks of tomato, onion and cilantro added interest to the smooth and creamy avocado.

A gigantic nachos platter was a lesson in the dangers of "eyes-bigger-than-stomach" ($6.95). We kept eating the chips, queso fresca (a mild Mexican cheese), pico de gallo, pinto beans, sour cream and guacamole because it tasted addictive at the time, but it was really more than two people could handle as an appetizer. Four people sharing the dish might come away less full and with happier memories.

The chile rellenos, made with poblano peppers, were filled to the brim with melted queso fresca and crowned with a nicely sweet mango salsa ($9.95). Anyone ordering this dish needs to adore cheese. If you do, you won't be disappointed.

A yummy carnitas plate came with pinto beans, Spanish rice and flour or corn tortillas ($13.95). A heap of the tender, shredded pork amply filled several tortillas.

Interestingly, Ay Ay Ay's chicken tamales were the reason I ended up there in the first place. A friend's co-worker had recommended the homemade tamales with enthusiasm. I made it a special point to try the husk-wrapped parcels -- a Tuesday-only special -- but found them a bit on the bland side.

But a dish I'll crave until it crosses my lips again is the Mexican prawns in a Chimayo-chile cream sauce, featuring black beans, Spanish rice and tortillas ($15.95). It's the most expensive dish on the regular menu, but it's worth every penny. Plump prawns are drenched in a garlicky, terra cotta-colored cream sauce. The intriguing sauce had underlying flavor layers of Mexican chocolate and spicy, smoky chiles -- savory, sweet and packing wonderful warmth all at the same time.

I later learned from Carpenter that the secret lies in a renowned spice combination made near the northern New Mexico village of Chimayo -- a special powder made from Chimayo chiles, which are subtly spicy and slightly sweet.

I told him he should bottle up the unique chile powder and sell it in the restaurant. But what I really want to do is bottle up the prawns dish so I can recreate the experience at will. Instead, I'll have to go back to Ay Ay Ay for my Chimayo spice fix.

Ay Ay Ay, 301 State St., Los Altos (650) 941-8226

Hours: Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; happy hour (bar only) Mon.-Fri. 3-6 p.m.

Atmosphere: The very casual atmosphere features a brick-red and mustard-yellow color scheme, punctuated by copper-topped tables. Outdoor seating is a key element. Television is available for sports fans or ticker-tape watchers.

Highlights: Two dishes make it worth a return trip: Mexican prawns in Chimayo chile cream sauce ($15.95) and BBQ lobster tostada ($12.95). Generous portions. House margaritas ($4.50) are also a standout. Happy-hour drinks are $3, including a free house appetizer. Reservations: Yes, but not always necessary Credit Cards: Yes Valet Parking: No, street Alcohol: Yes Takeout: Yes Highchairs: Yes Wheelchair Access: Yes Banquet/Catering: Yes Outdoor seating: Yes Noise Level: Medium Bathroom cleanliness: Average to low