A sushi success A sushi success (March 21, 2003)

By Anthony Silk

Japanese cuisine has held a special place in my heart ever since I lived in Japan.

The trouble with finding a great Japanese restaurant, however, is that so many cater to American tastes only; you find yourself consistently ordering the same dishes, such as tempura or chicken teriyaki. Not that these should be left behind. But to stand out, a great Japanese restaurant needs to go beyond what is expected and present the diner with a broader experience. Fuki Sushi in Palo Alto does just that.

From the outside, Fuki Sushi does not look much different from many other restaurants -- just a quiet little building along El Camino Real. Step inside, however, and you know immediately you are in a Japanese restaurant a cut above the rest. A main dining room, ideal for families, is filled with simple, wooden tables covered with basic white tablecloths. Light woods and modern lighting give the room a contemporary Asian feel.

Adjacent to the main dining area is the sushi bar, which seats a dozen people. A bright neon sign proclaiming "sushi" stands in contrast to the traditional meal the four chefs behind the bar are slicing. On the other side of the restaurant is a more intimate area, with tables separated by a lattice of dark wood. For the most private of dining experiences, there are individual tatami rooms that seat up to six.

Beyond the decor are the truly impressive six-page main and two-page sushi menus. Each is filled with a mixture of common and uncommon dishes. I decided to try a variety of the two during my two nights there.

When it came to appetizers, the less well-known dishes were the highlight. Yakitori ($6), grilled chicken on skewers with a teriyaki sauce, was beautiful to look at, highlighted by deep brown grill marks, and came with a hot stone to keep them warm. But aside from presentation, these were not much more than chicken tenders you could sauté at home, slightly chewy and reliant on the sauce for flavor. I felt the same about the gyoza ($6), a dish I normally love. Again, these were sautéed to a beautiful golden brown, but the filling lacked zip, and depended too much on the dipping sauce.

On the other hand, the beef ume-shiso roll ($8) was a delight of complex flavors -- thinly sliced rib eye wrapped around a piece of beef steak which had been coated with a sour plum sauce. The meat and sauce were held together by deep frying the combination in a tempura batter. One serving consisted of six of these delectable morsels, which were balanced between sweet, salty, crunchy and tender.

Just as delightful was the gyutan ishiyaki ($12). Five thin slices of beef tongue were peppered, lightly salted and served raw with several slices of lemon. After applying the lemon juice, we sauteed each slice ourselves on a hot grilling stone, a process that took less than two minutes. The result was one of the most succulent pieces of meat I have had in a long while.

Of the entrées, I found only the kobashii chicken ($13) lacking. Large pieces of chicken were batter-dipped in a shoyu sauce and then deep fried. If it weren't for the exceptional wasabi sauce that accompanied them, I would not have been able to differentiate these from basic chicken nuggets.

A salmon teriyaki and tempura combination ($23) was quite the opposite, combining an exquisitely presented piece of fish that had been grilled and covered with a light teriyaki sauce, with an arrangement of vegetable and shrimp tempura. Although the fish was completely cooked, it remained moist throughout, flaking under my chopsticks. The tempura was fried to perfection.

For a little more fun the second night I ordered the omakase ($28), a traditional Kyoto-style dinner set of eight items served in a compartmentalized box. Each subdivision was a different "course" and included chicken teriyaki, tempura , tuna and salmon sashimi, tako sunomono (sliced octopus and fresh cucumbers), snow crab and three different vegetable dishes.

Along with the accompanying miso soup (included with all dinners), it was a meal for two. But each dish, made to complement the others, was so delightful I finished the entire box.

I didn't get to sample nearly the amount of sushi I would have liked, as my companion the first night was enjoying hers so much I felt guilty tasting any of it.

The sushi we selected were some of the prettiest pieces of fish I've seen. So fresh that it glistened, the essence of each particular fish was evident as I bit into the exceptionally prepared maki and nigiri. My favorites were the hamachi ($4.35) - yellowtail -- and the unagi ($4.20) -- barbecued freshwater eel -- but I encourage you to venture out for yourself. If you are unsure, your server should be able to point you to something that will please your palate.

If you still have room, there is a small dessert menu consisting mostly of ice creams and other light, sweet treats.

Fuki Sushi has a limited, but nice, selection of wine ranging from $24 - $70 per bottle. Most are available by the glass. There is also an extensive variety of sake available, ranging from $8.50 - $100 per bottle. Japanese beer, tea and soda are available.

Service both nights was friendly and efficient. Following Japanese custom, each dish is served when it is ready, rather than waiting for the entire table. It isn't an issue if you are prepared to share your meal.

At Fuki Sushi, service, presentation and delicious food combine for a true taste of exceptional Japanese cuisine.

Fuki Sushi
4119 El Camino Real, Palo Alto; (650) 494-9383

Hours:
Lunch: Mon. - Fri.: 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m.; Dinner: Mon - Sat.: 5 p.m. - 10 p.m.; Sun.: 5 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.

Atmosphere:
Contemporary Asian, with separate areas for family, romantic and intimate dinning.

Highlights:
Hamachi (yellowtail) sushi ($4.35); gyutan ishiyaki (sliced beef tongue) ($12); omakase (eight-item dinner) ($28)

Price Range: Starters: $4 - $38; Entrees: $9 - $28; Sushi: $3.60 - $12; Desserts: $5.50.

Reservations: Yes Credit Cards: Yes Alcohol: Yes

Valet and Lot Parking: Yes Takeout: Yes

Highchairs: No Wheelchair access:

Banquet: No Catering: No

Outdoor seating: No Noise level: Low

Bathrooms: Avg.