Flavors Flavors (October 08, 2004)

Discovering malbec

By Robert Rich

Argentina has been making wine for over 400 years, since Spanish colonists first carried grape cuttings from the Old World. Recently, some excellent and very affordable Argentinian wines have found their way onto Bay Area market shelves, thanks to the efforts of several small local importers.

Argentina is famous for its malbec, a red Bordeaux grape that rarely achieves the ripeness and depth that it does in Argentina's Mendoza valley, nestled in the rocky foothills of the Andes. In an otherwise arid region, these vines pull water from underground mountain aquifers.

Malbec can have the structure of good cabernet, and it can carry the ripe fruit of earthy merlot. Flavors of cherry, blackberry, coffee, leather and cocoa abound. Malbec pairs well with red meat, mushrooms and aged hard cheeses.

Recent 2002 releases show a banner year for Argentina. Of the malbecs that I have tasted under $20, I can highly recommend the following:

* 2002 Cicchitti Blend Malbec/Cabernet ($11 at Draeger's, Menlo Park). A rich and spicy Bordeaux-style mix with 70 percent malbec, showing rich toasty berry fruit, mocha, tar, mint and dark sweet oak. In the mouth, the ripe fruit hides firm acidity, expressing balance and complexity.

* 2002 Dolium Malbec ($9 at Whole Foods, Cupertino). Notes of granite dust, bing cherries, cocoa powder, iodine. The palate seems almost salty, with unsweetened chocolate and iron minerality. This wine opens up very well in the bottle over a ten-hour period, developing deeper fruit profiles.

* 2002 El Felino Malbec, Nativo Series, Paul Hobbs ($13 at Beverages & More, Mountain View). An excellent value, offering inky black cherry fruit, tar, rust, hints of iodine, leather, tobacco and soft creamy-yeasty smells. Warm and fruity palate, softer than the nose implies, with earthy blueberry flavors, cocoa and ferric overtones.

* 1997 Conalbi Grinberg Malbec ($19 at Ernie's, Palo Alto.) A serious wine that still seems young after seven years. Clean bright cherry/cassis fruit with caramel oak, ageworthy tannin structure, hints of tobacco. It would age well in the cellar for several more years.

You also can directly contact the small companies importing these wines. Argimports in Redwood City represents Cicchitti, Conalbi Grinberg and others.
E-mail ines@argimports.com or call 430-4306. Dolium comes through Argentium in San Jose.
E-mail mike@argentiumwine.com or call (408) 483-6530.

E-mail Robert Rich at flavors@rrich.com

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