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Publication Date: Friday, February 03, 2006 A hidden treasure
A hidden treasure
(February 03, 2006) Palermo in Menlo Park may not be easy to find, but it's worth the hunt
By Dale F. Bentson
First, let me dispense with some confusion.
In 1987, Renato and Diane Cusimano opened the original Palermo restaurant in San Jose. In 1990, they opened a second Palermo in Palo Alto.
In 1993, they sold the Palo Alto operation to Giovanni Toccagino and his family. Last year, Toccagino retired and closed the Palo Alto location and the Cusimanos sold the San Jose restaurant. Last November, the Cusimanos opened the newest Palermo in Menlo Park. Got it?
Palermo Menlo Park is a charming restaurant unhappily hidden behind Cafe Borrone and just around the corner from Kepler's Books. The owners are working with the building's landlord for better signage and visibility from El Camino Real.
Meanwhile, if it's hard to find, Palermo is worth seeking out. The ambiance is contemporary yet warm, the service is excellent and the food is decidedly above the norm.
With squash-colored walls, colorful tile, flagstone floor, dark wood chairs and linen-lined tables, the 50-seat-capacity restaurant also boasts a cozy bar opposite its semi-open kitchen. There's an outside covered patio, complete with overhead heaters, that can seat an additional 75. All in all, it is a chic spot without being pretentious.
During my recent visits, service was exceptionally attentive but never haughty. The wait staff was knowledgeable, friendly and helpful with both food and wine menus. The pacing of courses from the kitchen was just right.
Born in Palermo, Sicily, Renato learned cooking at an early age. His recipes are traditional but he has adjusted them to fit our California palate: lighter oils, more grilling than frying, and so on. Other members of his family operate restaurants in New York and Sicily. The extensive menu is seasonally evolved to incorporate the freshest of ingredients.
It was a chore choosing from the lengthy and enticing list of both hot and cold antipasti. It being winter, I opted for the warmer fare. Fagioli alla Toscana ($9.50) were creamy white cannellini beans with chopped fresh sage, pancetta, garlic and tomato that had been simmered and thickened in its own broth. It was just enough to ignite the taste buds.
The flavorsome fried peppers ($11.50) featured shimmering red and yellow peppers sauteed in garlic and olive oil. Colorful and festive, the dish had a savory fragrance that permeated the air.
I loved the spiedino alla Romana ($11.50). Several layers of thick sliced white bread alternated with solid mozzarella cheese in a dish that was dipped in egg, lightly floured, then fried. Served in a pool of fresh anchovy, butter and parsley sauce, it was both filling and rich. Coupled with a salad the spiedino would make an excellent brunch or late breakfast.
The fried calamari ($11.50) I thought a tad pricey, but the plump mollusk morsels were fresh-breaded and fried crisp but light. The calamari was so tender I eschewed the pleasant cocktail sauce that accompanied. So good, I was reluctant to share.
Besides the hot antipasti, there were eight cold antipasti, which could double as side dishes if desired. Palermo also offers soups and salads, and, at lunch, there are a half dozen panini or sandwiches, all served with house salad ($8.50-$11.95).
There were more than a dozen versions of pasta available with or without meat, as well as seafood and vegetarian varieties ($11.95-$19.95). I focused on the house-made stuffed pastas instead. The gnocchi Aurora ($12.95) were delicate little dumplings, spongy and not rubbery, light and supple. The delicious sauce was made from imported tomatoes with butter and sage. I managed to eat but half the plate.
My favorite, though, was the pansotti ($14.50), large ravioli stuffed with tender chicken and spinach. The imported tomato, butter and ricotta cheese sauce was divine. Luscious and fragrant, the sauce begged to have every last drop sopped up with crusty Italian bread.
Besides the extensive pasta offerings, there were other dishes as well. Veal Giacomina ($23.95), named after the chef's daughter, featured tender veal filets layered with imported prosciutto and mushrooms. The veal was afloat in fragrant, yet not overwhelming, Marsala wine sauce. Marsala is a fortified Sicilian white wine often used in cooking. The dish was replete with a variety of al dente-cooked vegetables.
Veal rollatini ($23.95) were delicate veal filets, flattened and rolled around a filling of Provolone cheese, imported ham and mortadella (Italian smoked sausage), mozzarella cheese and pine nuts. The veal rolls had been sprinkled with breadcrumbs and sauteed quickly. The ham and cheese stuffing provided a lively taste surprise without overshadowing the subtleties of the veal. A medley of fresh vegetables accompanied.
The house-made deserts were equally delightful. The traditional tiramisu (Italian for pick-me-up) was a custard of sweetened mascarpone cheese layered with lady fingers, rum and espresso coffee, sprinkled with powdered cocoa and a squiggle of whipped cream for toppers. It was a velvety slab of paradise.
The cannoli, a crisp fried pastry shell, was loaded with delicate lip-smacking creamy ricotta cheese. Practically every Italian restaurant and bakery claims to have the most "authentic" cannoli recipe. But who cares when it's a good as this?
Cassata was another traditional Sicilian dessert. Liqueur-soaked sponge cake had been filled with ricotta cheese, cherry, lemon and lime candied fruits, chocolate shavings and decorated with marzipan and whipped cream. Delizioso! (All desserts are priced at $7.50.)
Palermo offers full bar service in addition to a solid, if unremarkable, wine list. There are a handful of French wines supplementing the mostly California and Italian offerings. Nearly all the Italian selections hail from Tuscany and Piedmont. A dozen assorted wines are available by the glass. Corkage fee is $15. I was partial to the Frescobaldi Nippazzano, Chianti Riserva, 2002, ($45). It was like sipping a bit of history.
The Nippozzano Castle was built as a fortress to protect the city of Florence from the city of Arezzo a millennium ago. The Frescobaldi family, ensconced adjacent to the castle, has been in the wine business since the 11th century. This particular wine was well balanced, soft and spare, fruity, easy on the tannin -- a wine meant for early consumption.
Palermo features a sizeable assortment of after-dinner drinks: coffees, cognacs, ports, sweet dessert wines, Limoncello and grappa (for the stout of heart). Yet it is the food, not the libation, that will bring me back. The chic and cozy ambiance, the attentive service and the tempting dishes make it a must-stop for serious dinners. Once the word is out, they might not need those new signs after all.
Palermo 1010 El Camino Real, Menlo Park (650) 322-2157
Hours: Daily from 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. The dinner menu starts at 4 p.m.
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