Mountain View Voice

Eating Out - July 16, 2010

Pizza for a small planet

Gourmet toppings and a California-veggie vibe distinguish ZPizza

by Monica Hayde Schreiber

In the history of mankind, there have emerged few culinary concoctions that can rival the perfection of pizza. An entire meal condensed into a weighty wedge of baked dough, sauce, cheese and toppings. Orange grease trickles down your hand and lactose courses through your veins as four kinds of animal protein combine in gooey deliciousness.

But what if you could get the satisfaction of pizza without some of the guilt? What if a pizza dinner didn't have to remind you of long-ago dorm room study sessions? What if you're a member of PETA?

Those are some the questions Sid Fanarof was asking himself back in the mid-1980s. Determined to inject a dose of California consciousness into the pizza experience, the Laguna Beach resident founded ZPizza in 1986. He started franchising in 1999. ZPizza has since expanded to hundreds of locations across the United States, with more than 50 in California. Mexico is home to several ZPizzas and if you ever find yourself craving, say, a chicken curry and yam pizza rustica while in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, you'll find four outposts there.

The local ZPizza, owned by Mountain View resident Linda Su, has been serving pizza, salads, sandwiches and pasta on Castro Street for a little over two years.

The simple, counter-service restaurant prepares slender pizzas with fresh, additive-free ingredients, a number of vegetarian and vegan toppings, and a whole wheat or gluten-free crust if you desire. Of course, they have all the requisite nouvelle-California-Mediterranean ingredients you'd expect: arugula, artichoke hearts, pine nuts, roasted eggplant, gorgonzola, truffle oil and the like.

But have no fear, traditionalists. They've got you covered, too. Pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms, ham, salami, anchovies - they're all on the menu. But even some of the standard fixings take on the guise of healthier, more politically correct fare. The pepperoni is low-fat and MSG-free, the tomato sauce is certified organic, and the mozzarella is made of hormone-free milk.

The franchise's popularity can only be attributed to the fresh, flavorful food as the atmosphere, at least of our local Zpizza, hews toward "corporate cafeteria." The place feels like, well, a franchise with stark lighting and a sterile decor that only a home office could create. But the food is good.

A large pear and gorgonzola salad ($8.50) provided generous helpings to three adults. The only way that this now-iconic salad doesn't work is if the balsamic dressing is too overpowering or the pears unripe. ZPizza's version satisfied on all fronts. The Greek salad ($5.95; $8:50) was similarly familiar, a carbon copy of Greek salads you'll find in reputable restaurants everywhere, but generous, fresh, and tangy with feta cheese.

ZPizza's oblong "rusticas" can be shared as an appetizer and also work as a one-person meal. We loved our Moroccan pizza rustica ($8.95), smoky and satisfying with basil pesto, mozzarella, roasted eggplant, feta, caramelized onions, and pine nuts.

ZPizza's crust is fabulous. Granted, die-hard Chicago-stylers might not feel the vibe with ZPizza's interpretation of the thin-crust experience, but if they don't give this crust a try, they're missing out. Fire-baked on hot bricks, it comes out chewy and toasty, comparable to fresh-baked, high-quality bread. I was actually surprised to find myself savoring the sauce-less, bready ends of each slice. Normally I jettison the pizza ends as a mere wasted experience in carbohydrates. Not so at ZPizza.

Another great combination was the Tuscan pizza ($10.50; $17.50; $21.50). It was slathered with a roasted garlic sauce, covered with mozzarella, caramelized onions, feta, truffle oil, and thyme, then populated liberally with cremini, shitake and button mushrooms.

We also tried the Provence pizza ($9.95; $16.95; $20.95), this time with ZPizza's vegan cheese. Everything about the Provence was delicious — the tangy tomato sauce, the roasted garlic, the capers, the fresh basil. But that vegan cheese was — how do I put this delicately? — kind of icky. As someone who loves dairy, but is also acutely aware that not all California cows are happy cows, I really, really wanted to like that vegan cheese. But my two dining companions and I agreed that it pretty much ruined the pizza. It melted to the consistency of Velveeta and tasted like canola oil, which happens to be a primary ingredient in the Daiya-brand cheese they use.

I appreciate that ZPizza offers so many vegan and veggie alternatives and can only hope that those people better accustomed to mindful eating than I am find something to love in Daiya. A tastier alternative for vegetarians might be ZPizza's soy-based cheese. True vegans will want to know that the soy cheese contains casein, an animal protein.

ZPizza offers two copious and tasty pasta dishes: penne with meatballs and a chicken penne pesto ($7.50 each).

Each day of the week brings a different special. For example, during lunch on Tuesdays you get a free 14-inch specialty pizza with the purchase of an 18-inch. On Saturdays, kids get a free slice of cheese pizza and fountain drink with a minimal adult-sized purchase. Delivery is free with a $20 minimum.

It might be easy to dismiss franchises as soulless purveyors of cuisine created by committee, but in the case of franchises like ZPizza, where a good concept meets good food and a good value, what's not to enjoy?

ZPizza

146 Castro Street, Mountain View,

650-314-0088

Monday-Thursday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

Friday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

Saturday Noon-10 p.m.

Sunday Noon-9 p.m.

Reservations: No

Website: Yes

Credit cards: Yes

Parking: No

Alcohol: No

Highchairs: Yes

Catering: Yes

Take-out: Yes

Outdoor dining: Yes

Party facilities: No

Noise level: Low

Bathroom cleanliness: Good

Comments

There are no comments yet for this post

Post a comment

Posting an item on Town Square is simple and requires no registration. Just complete this form and hit "submit" and your topic will appear online. Please be respectful and truthful in your postings so Town Square will continue to be a thoughtful gathering place for sharing community information and opinion. All postings are subject to our TERMS OF USE, and may be deleted if deemed inappropriate by our staff.

We prefer that you use your real name, but you may use any "member" name you wish.

Name: *

Select your neighborhood or school community: * Not sure?

Choose a category: *

Since this is the first comment on this story a new topic will also be started in Town Square! Please choose a category that best describes this story.

Comment: *

Verification code: *
Enter the verification code exactly as shown, using capital and lowercase letters, in the multi-colored box.

*Required Fields