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Vegetarians in Burritoville
We compare a few local burrito joints' meatless versions of the classic staple

by Sheila Himmel

Early burritos were enormous, overstuffed creatures that could've fed bears in winter. Then came a tide of sad and soggy fusions, doomed by ingredients like eggplant. Many people still prefer monster burritos, but in the spirit of a dish that is, after all, a Cal-Mex collaboration, now we have healthier choices.

If we dispense with inappropriate vegetables and detour around the deep-fried meats, burritos provide value in healthy hand-held meals. In the economical meatless versions, beans and rice combine to provide a complete protein. Serious vegetarians may have to ask about lard-free tortillas.

Mountain View offers many sources, but the Golden Triangle of Taquerias would have to be the intersection of Old Middlefield Way and Rengstorff Avenue, just off Highway 101. They are La Bamba, La Costena and Taqueria Los Altos.

Palo Alto's burritos are lightly sprinkled in each of the three commercial districts. Downtown recently lost Andale, but by late March Adam Torres hopes to open Sancho's Taqueria on Lytton Avenue. Meanwhile, get veggie and chile relleno burritos at Sancho's in La Tiendita Market, 510 O'Connor St., East Palo Alto, and two locations in Redwood City.

We ordered roughly the same vegetarian super burrito at five stops, with whole pinto beans and medium-spicy salsa. Size-wise, they were similar.

Our sixth stop, the Oaxacan Kitchen, does not have a burrito. It is a charming sit-down restaurant featuring regional specialties, including a handful of street foods. We sampled two vegetarian items from the takeout menu.

Los Altos Taqueria

Cheapest on our tour and serving the most in-house diners, Los Altos Taqueria let us down with a veggie burrito drenched in sour cream. The lettuce got very soggy. The burrito could use more beans, but comes with chips and salsa. Children's version is $2.50.

La Costena

This burrito is the most beautiful. Cut it in half and admire the cross-section of fresh, discreet ingredients. The beans don't mash up. Choices in rice are Spanish, white and brown. The thin tortilla is concentrated in folds at both ends. Bean and rice chico burrito is $2.39, with vegetables $3.99.

Taqueria La Bamba

Best overall, and certainly the best aftertaste. These burritos are satisfying in every way, with well-proportioned ingredients in a thick flour tortilla, and a taste of guacamole and salsa in every bite.

Como Esta Taqueria

The best variety of vegetarian burritos is offered here (brightly printed, readable stickers tell you which is which), with no lard and good salsa choices. But the guacamole is the worst, bland and pureed like baby food. The veggie super is filled with rice, beans, salsa, guacamole, lettuce, sour cream, cheese and tomato. The chile relleno burrito is good and not heavily crusted. The tofu burrito has too many green bell peppers. Chico veggie is $3.75.

Three Brothers Taco & Meat Market

The best value can be found here. Once called Tres Hermanos, Three Brothers offers a classic, fully stuffed flour tortilla, oozing sour cream, spiked with cilantro and onions. The shredded jack cheese clumped up, but iceberg lettuce was inoffensive. Bonus: sliced avocado plus guacamole.

The Oaxacan Kitchen

Unlike burritos, these Oaxacan street foods cool off quickly and are not meant to be reheated. The tlayuda is constructed like a tostada, on a large, freshly handmade and toasted corn tortilla. A spread of mashed black beans is followed by fresh tomato, queso fresco, cabbage, salsa, avocado slices and guacamole — great guacamole. Memela ($5) is similar but smaller, with black beans and dark mole. The vegetarian quesadilla ($6) features melted jack-like cheese with a tad of cilantro.