A taste of South India at Swagat Indian Cuisine A taste of South India at Swagat Indian Cuisine (August 18, 2000)

By Jim Harrington

A varied menu and pleasant decor welcome diners at Swagat.

Most people in the Bay Area have tried Indian food. But how many can say they have fully explored the cuisine?

A good place to further your culinary education is at Swagat Indian Cuisine on El Camino Real in Mountain View. Unlike most of the nearby Indian restaurants, Swagat specializes in dishes from southern India. That's not to say you can't get all your regular northern favorites, but you can also try some items you won't find at other places.

Although Swagat is part of a small chain of restaurants with locations around the Bay Area (Milpitas, Concord) and Portland, it is not only one of the best Indian restaurants in our area--it's one of the best restaurants in the area, period. Everything I tried at Swagat was remarkably good and the preparation is often exceptional.

The restaurant is one of the best-looking, most comfortable Indian restaurants I have been to. Intriguing Indian movie soundtracks are played in the background. Stained-glass chandeliers hang over the deep booths and tables. It's definitely an upscale family restaurant.

Start with a King Fisher or Taj Mahal beer or a glass of house white wine while you scan the list of deep-fried appetizers. The vegetable samosas ($2.75), two large, crisp pastries stuffed with a mash of potatoes and green peas, are delightful. Also, try the masala vada ($3.50), a deep-fried pastry made with split-pea flour.

The best appetizer is the chicken pakora ($4), which delivers a generous helping of little round chicken nuggets. The balls are given zest with cilantro, scallions, and cumin seed. The meat is still juicy.

Three sauces--one red, one green, and one white--accompany the appetizers. The red is a mild chili, the green a classic mint, and the white sauce a cool, coconut chutney. All are worth spooning on the plate.

For a main course, go with a dosa, a southern Indian specialty. The dosas are long, crisp, mostly hollow pastries containing just the right amount of selected filling. Besides being tasty, they are also a bargain. The masala dosa, which is stuffed with a delightful vegetable curry, is just $3.50.

I also recommend trying one of the southern Indian rice specialties, such as the vangi bhat ($5.95), eggplant cooked with basmati rice; or the bisi bele bhat ($5.95), rice cooked with lentils.

You can also order from the regular array of tandoori items that include chicken, lamb, fish, and shrimp.

Finish your meal with one of the desserts like rice kheer ($2) or mango ice cream ($2).

Swagat Indian Cuisine, 2700 W. El Camino Real, Mountain View; (650) 948-7727. Call for hours. Credit cards are accepted.