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Issue date: December 29, 2000

Patrons of Stoddard's Brewhouse Eatery in Sunnyvale choose from a small but award-winning selection of hand-crafted beers, plus a fine food menu.

@vcredit:Josh Keithley

Stoddard's Brewhouse Eatery survives pub craze with small, quality menu of food and brews Stoddard's Brewhouse Eatery survives pub craze with small, quality menu of food and brews (December 29, 2000)

By Jim Harrington

The brewpub craze, for better or worse, is pretty much over in the Bay Area. In the mid-'90s, it seemed like a new brewery-restaurant opened just about every month on a different street corner. Some of them have since closed their doors, while the best have managed to weather the fad, cementing their positions in the food and bar scene.

Sunnyvale's Stoddard's Brewhouse Eatery was part of the second generation to hit the South Bay, after places like the Tied House and Gordon Biersch cleared the path. It remains a popular destination thanks to its upscale setting, great location, helpful staff, fine food menu, and commitment to serving a limited though well thought-out craft-brew selection.

Nestled into the increasingly lively Murphy Avenue district, Stoddard's is a nice complement to the many Irish bars serving Guinness and stew, as well as to the variety of Asian restaurants in the area. While the beers are British, the food is classic American with a few international touches.

During the warmer months, Stoddard's is a great place for outdoor dining on the pretty back patio. During the winter -- or any time of the year -- the restaurant provides a warm and hospitable dining experience. The open kitchen is the focal point of the two-story restaurant, but there is also a large bar area with televisions sets tuned to sports action.

There are only three or four beers on the menu at one time. The brewmaster trades variety for consistency. That's a good move, since many brewpubs have failed because they've tried to do too much -- wheat beers, fruit beers, etc. -- and ended up with inferior products.

All of Stoddard's brews are worthwhile. There's the English-style pale ale that won a gold medal in the prestigious Great American Beer Festival in 1998. The E.S.B. is a rich amber ale that delivers the promised "bitter" taste. That brew is also an award winner, having taken home the bronze medal in the 1998 World Beer Cup. The classic-style porter is lovely, with a deep-red hue, and very filling. There are also seasonal brews such as the distinct Scotch ale. Prices are $3.75 for a pint, $2.50 for a half-pint, and $14 for a pitcher.

If you aren't sure what to order, sampler sets are available for $5.50. If you are positive about what you want to drink, you can take home a half-gallon growler (jug) for $14.50. Growler refills are just $10.

For starters, try the sizzling rock shrimp ($7.50), which are served in the pan in which they are cooked with garlic and chili oil; or the Thai spring rolls ($6.95), which come with a tart lemon plum sauce. The Brewhouse Platter ($13.95) delivers Jamaican-style chicken wings, tender baby-back ribs, and juicy Bockwurst sausage. It easily serves two, and is a nice way to sample the goods while enjoying your first beer of the evening.

Make sure to check out the nightly specials before deciding on a main course. On Mondays, the restaurant offers marinated pork tenderloin and seared sea scallops in a buttery sauce flavored by fresh thyme, sauteed onions, and shallots. The next night, the special is pan-seared California striped bass served with Yukon gold potatoes, roasted portobello mushrooms, sauteed spinach, and honey-mustard beurre blanc.

Stoddard's makes excellent pizzas. The crust is thin and crisp and the toppings are abundant. You can go basic with the pepperoni ($11.95) or cheese ($11.50) or try the first-rate Greek offering that comes topped with chopped tomatoes, oregano, olive oil, feta cheese with shrimp ($13.95) or grilled chicken ($12.95).

It's hard to find a better entree to go with hand-crafted brews than the mix of grilled sausages ($15.95). Sip a porter while enjoying bites of bockwurst, artichoke and pork stuffed sausages, sauteed Swiss chard, mashed potatoes, and homemade dried fruit chutney. The mesquite-grilled pork chops dish ($17.95), which comes with cinnamon apples, sauteed veggies and mashed potatoes, is an all-American favorite that Stoddard's does up quite nicely.

Executive chef Rudy Granados and master brewer Bob Stoddard work off of each other in fine fashion. The brews suit the food and the food suits the brews. What more can one ask for in a brewpub?

Stoddard's Brewhouse Eatery, 111 S. Murphy Ave., Sunnyvale; Phone, (408) 733-7824. Call for hours. Credit cards accepted.