At Chelokababi, Persian cuisine to delight the palate and the eye At Chelokababi, Persian cuisine to delight the palate and the eye (March 09, 2001)

By Joni Ratts

Even from the outside, I knew Chelokababi would be a good choice. Now, after a delightful dinner experience, I can tell you this Persian restaurant is a gem. I'd like to keep it a secret, but that would be selfish.

The restaurant is located near the end of a small strip mall, but its blue and white sign with scrolled lettering gives the hint that this place might be special.

Signs of the restaurant's charming ambiance appear as soon as you open the door. Persian-style rugs and wine displays decorate the lobby. Heavily textured white walls present a clean and simple backdrop for woven rugs, mirrors and pictures. The tables are draped with paisley cloths and covered with glass. Ficus trees positioned down the middle of the room separate the tables and create a courtyard effect. Chandeliers and wall sconces cast soft light and create an inviting atmosphere, despite the height of the ceiling and the openness of the room.

With an early reservation, it was not yet crowded. We were greeted warmly and seated immediately.

There are three alcove spaces along one side. If you can, elect to dine in one. They are small, private spaces that look out into the main room. If you want a romantic environment, or are celebrating a special occasion, this would be the perfect setting, cozy and charming.

Our waiter, Nader, was friendly and pleasant. He offered several suggestions about food and wine while we perused the menu.

The wine list has a decent, basic selection of both reds and whites, although mostly limited to California wines. Champagne is also available. We chose a Parducci Merlot ($5.50/glass), which we found full-bodied.

Appetizers, soups and salads are offered. We chose to share. The Nan-O-Sabzi ($4.50) is fresh herbs served with pita bread, Persian cheese, and large walnut halves. The herb combinations were actual sprigs of watercress, basil and mint. The cheese was firm and mellow. I found this dish light and refreshing.

The Dolmeh Barg ($5.75), grape leaves filled with a mixture of lean ground beef, split peas and diced fresh vegetables, was served with tomato wedges. This was delicious and had a spicy flavor that lingered on my palate.

But our favorite choice, and one of Nader's suggestions, was Salad Shirazi ($2.95). This is a bowl of chopped onions, tomatoes, and cucumbers dressed in olive oil and vinegar with a dash of lemon juice and a lively accent of dill that resembles salsa. I could have eaten the entire serving myself.

All entrees are served with plates of fluffy basmati rice. I added red currants. The mounds of rice were tender, firm and perfectly cooked. Served with a ribbon of yellow saffron and specs of red currants, it made a striking image on the plate.

For entrees we chose kababs. Mine, Chengeh-Jooheh ($13.95), was a beef and chicken combination consisting of marinated and barbecued filet mignon and chicken filets. My husband chose Barg-Bareh ($16.50), a beef and lamb combination of flattened filet mignon strips, marinated and grilled, and filets of marinated lamb. We enjoyed all four, but the flattened beef strips (Barg) were fork-tender and the tastiest. The kababs were served with barbecued tomatoes.

We couldn't resist a side of barbecued onions ($2.50). These large quarters of sweet, white onions added a delicious zest to the kababs. There are vegetarian dishes and additional side orders on the menu for lighter fare, as well as daily specials.

Servings at Chelokababi are generous, so sharing portions would be a good idea. We had too much to eat and elected to take home leftovers. They made a great lunch the next day.

I find it difficult not to have dessert. With no chocolate on the menu, I chose Bastani, Persian ice cream. What a great choice! It was rosewater flavor sprinkled with pistachios. The color was luscious, somewhere between apricot and peach, and with the green nuts, was almost too pretty to eat. I would love to find that color in paint, and use it somewhere in my house. The ice cream was smooth and creamy, and tasted as luscious as it looked. Nader brought us a half serving (at our request), but seeing how much we enjoyed it, he brought us the other half.

I think my secret is out. By the time we left, the restaurant was full. Chelokababi is a keeper!

Chelokababi, 1236 Wolfe Road, Sunnyvale. Phone: (408) 737-1222. Credit cards accepted. Reservations. Lunch and dinner. Take-out menu and corporate delivery program available. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m.