The Sundeck's dividends include good food and great views The Sundeck's dividends include good food and great views (July 06, 2001)

By Mary Orlin

I love insider tips. Not the stock market kind, but the culinary kind. If I were talking to you, I'd beckon to you to come closer and whisper, "The Sundeck."

Nestled under the clock tower in the 3000 Sand Hill Road corporate complex (the "in" venture capital address), The Sundeck Restaurant opened in the mid 1970s. Managed by Guckenheimer Enterprises, a Redwood Shores-based corporate food-service provider, the restaurant features the creations of Executive Chef Brent Crusan, (formerly of the Hyatt San Jose), who has been with Sundeck for just over a year.

Manager Joel Sage, who joined Sundeck in January, keeps a close eye on day-to-day operations. Sage, who moved to the Bay Area to work on his MBA, knows his menu and ingredients well. His impeccable credentials include managing stints at restaurants in New York's Waldorf-Astoria and the Hotel Bel-Air in Los Angeles.

Inside, what looks like a lobby is actually a takeout counter. Behind glass doors the white tablecloth-filled restaurant is quiet and discreet. The clientele is particularly attractive; and you can feel power oozing in the air -- high level discussions between VC's and clients, Stanford faculty dishing on intellectual subjects.

Through big picture windows you'll see one of the best reasons for coming here: a lovely view of the Santa Cruz Mountain foothills. There's a big deck with picnic tables outside. Although al fresco dining is for takeout orders, Sage told us in a few weeks they'll inaugurate outdoor table service on half of the terrace, keeping the other half open to takeout dining. A smart move.

One regular told us that coming here for breakfast and lunch on the same day is popular, known as a "double-decker." Noon is crunch time, especially for takeout, when the line can be unbearably long. Since hot sandwiches and burgers are made to order, you'll have a short wait, but it will be worth it.

Fat, juicy Niman Ranch burgers ($7.25) were grilled just right, with or without cheese ($7.75) or hickory-smoked bacon ($8.25) on crusty, sweet buns. Addictive skinny and salty French fries accompanied burgers. Plump grilled paprika-dusted chicken breasts topped Asian salad ($4.50 half/$7.50 whole), one of the most popular dishes, chock-full of Napa cabbage, Mandarin oranges and almonds. With a smoky-sweet and tangy sesame dressing, this salad was quite a mouthful of fresh flavors.

Check weekly specials. An amazing grilled fennel, blood orange and peppery arugula salad ($9.95) boasted beautiful red-orange citrus sections, topped with blue cheese, all drizzled with tart balsamic-citrus vinaigrette. For a user-friendly breakfast, you can't beat Sundeck's thick, toasted sourdough, egg, smoked bacon and cheese sandwich ($3.25), a savory and filling meal-on-the-run.

Bagels ($1.75), courtesy of Posh Bagels (schmeared with cream cheese of course), were toasted crisp outside and chewy inside. Either handheld sandwich paired with Starbucks coffee ($1.50/large) for a good eye-opener. Oatmeal, ($1.95) however, was too soupy for my taste; soft blueberry muffins ($1.25) or fresh fruit (95cents/piece) were better choices. Espresso drinks are available -- the only item you can get all morning (7:30-11 a.m. Breakfast service ends at 9:30 a.m.).

Inside, the best tables hug glass walls for prime gazing over the valley and hills. Service is dependable, though slightly off-key at times -- appetizers arrived with entrees, servers had to reconfirm orders. The pace is often slow. While the menu is more extensive than the takeout menu, prices are higher.

Dark, malted wheat Belgium waffles ($5.50) were delightfully sweet, served with berries (an additional $1.50 -- a stiff extra charge). Design your own omelet ($6.50 for 3 items; additional items are 50¢ each) from a list of cheeses, meats and vegetables. Our tomato, avocado and Swiss cheese omelet was light and airy, as was the accompanying soft sourdough English muffin.

Soups here change daily, except for the sublime leek gratin with brie ($5.25), a take on classic French onion soup. Sautéed leeks and broth were topped with a crouton and a healthy slice of brie completely melted over the top. It was gooey, stringy and very rich. However, chicken stock base overwhelmed a simple puree of carrot and ginger soup ($4.50).

Sundeck's Cobb salad ($9.50 whole/$7.50 half) had a zingy, creamy dressing enlivening the nice chopped mix. We weren't thrilled that the half salad wasn't half price. We could hardly get our hands around the substantial ahi tuna sandwich ($11.50), a grilled fillet that I'd swear was at least an inch thick. A ciabatta-style roll held it all together, smeared with a delicious and assertive wasabi mayonnaise. The tuna was slightly dried out on the edges, but slightly pink and juicy in the middle. Wonderful side fries disappeared quickly.

In the mood for comfort food? Look no further than roasted chicken on lemon risotto ($10.95). Tender chicken with a bronzed, garlic-infused crispy skin sits on a brilliant mix of arborio rice, parsley and lemon zest. It was pretty to look at, and even better to eat. Pastas were hit or miss. Cavatappi pasta ($9.95), large hollow spirals tossed with lightly roasted oyster mushrooms, broccolini, cherry tomato and spring onions, sprinkled with basil and parmesan cheese, was a hit. A delicate broth coated the pasta and veggies, for a sumptuous and fresh, out-of-the-garden experience. Pan-seared scallops with green and white fettuccini ($13.95, a special) didn't pass muster. The scallops were slightly tough and missing that wonderful briny sweet taste. And if marjoram was in the dish, it didn't make itself known to our palate.

While The Sundeck doesn't have bar drinks, lemonade ($1.95) was a pleasingly tart refresher, served in a big glass. Know that if you ask for a refill on soda ($1.95), you'll be charged for it. And the one day we wanted dessert after lunch, the restaurant was out of treats, except for cookies.

The Sundeck caters meals off-site and delivers to offices. To avoid lines, you can fax in orders by 10 a.m. Just make sure you get there by 1:30 p.m., or you're out of luck, since that's when the restaurant closes. We'd like to see it stay open a little longer, or at least offer take-away snacks to help get us through the rest of the workday. The Sundeck Restaurant, 3000 Sand Hill Road, Menlo Park, (650) 854-2119, fax (650) 854-9520 Hours: Mon.-Fri. 7:30 a.m.-9:30 a.m. and 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m.