Flipping over Kirk's burgers Flipping over Kirk's burgers (January 10, 2003)

Solid but pricey burgers at spiffy new location

By Anthony Silk

What makes a really great burger joint?

It's a question that has befuddled both patrons and critics alike since man started grinding beef and putting it over a fire. Is it just the burger? Can you have a great burger in a really classy restaurant? Or should your environs feel more like a backyard picnic -- a little haphazard at best? And should the burger be huge and overflowing the bun? Or just neat and tidy? And, of course, should it be cheap?

All of these questions, and many more, were running through my head as I first entered Kirk's, newly located in Palo Alto's Town & Country Village after more than 50 years on California Avenue. Truth be told, not much has changed since the restaurant first opened. The menu is still basically burgers, fries, onion rings and shakes. But, having received numerous "best burger" awards, perhaps change is not what Kirk's needed.

It was inevitable, though, as Kirk's lost its lease last year, and had to move. According to John Withers, the owner of the three Kirk's restaurants (the other two are in Cupertino and Campbell), the move allowed them to add some items to the menu that customers had been asking for, and basically to clean up the place.

And, although I never went to the original restaurant, from all accounts, the new location in the Village is remarkably spiffier. With its freshly painted green walls, green and white tablecloths and lighting over every table, on first impression the two rooms that make up Kirk's are reminiscent of an old '50s diner. But notice the fast-food style condiment islands, the unmopped floor and dirty tables, and clearly this is not your Dad's old joint. And Dad probably paid less than $4.25 for a burger.

So what makes Kirk's burgers so special? Is it because it's a "steakburger?" According to Webster's Dictionary, steak is just "a patty of ground meat broiled or fried." Given that definition, almost all burgers are "steak burgers." What separates Kirk's from the rest is preparation.

Made from one-third of a pound of ground beef, the standard Kirk's Steakburger ($4.25) is cooked over one of two large charcoal grills right behind the main counter. As you stand and wait for your burger you'll see the flames leaping up in the air and enveloping the meat laid upon them. It certainly is enough to make your mouth water.

It's good enough to make the burgers juicy as well. Even though they don't ask your preference, Kirk's serves the burgers medium-well (very little pink inside) but there is still enough juice that whatever the bun doesn't soak up will come dripping down your hands. Kirk's also serves a half-pound burger ($6.05), which is more of the same. If that's still not enough, order a double steak burger for two-thirds of a pound of meat.

Then there are the toppings, which generally run about 50 cents to $1 each. They include everything from cheese (Swiss, jack, or cheddar) to bacon, pineapple, chili and "shrooms." It may seem a bit pricey for a single topping, but my mushroom burger had more mushrooms than a rainforest. Marinated and sauteed, they complemented the burger quite nicely, with enough left over to act as a side dish.

All the other things you might want on your burger (lettuce, tomato and the like) can be found on one of the two condiment bars. Kirk's lists them as "zillions of condiments" although I counted only 11. Still, it's not often you find horseradish and jalapenos available at a burger place, and so it's a nice touch, especially for those attempting to burn out their taste buds.

If you are not in the burger mood, Kirk's offers up a marinated grilled chicken breast sandwich ($6.40). It's big, it's tender, it's flavorful and it's juicy. And yet, it still didn't seem worth the expense. Perhaps the problem is the presentation. I realize that it may be nice to put on as many condiments as you would like, but for $6.40 I expect something more than just a breast of chicken served on a plain bun.

But there is always more to a burger joint than what's served on buns. There are also the sides, and it is here, I think, where Kirk's really shines.

The two basic sides that Kirk's offers up are French fries and "munchers" ($1.59/$2.49/$3.29). The fries are thick cut, seasoned and cooked to perfection. And there are a lot of them. A small order is certainly enough for the average person, but may not be enough to satisfy your cravings.

Munchers are onion strings, which, like their cousin onion rings, are battered and fried. However strings don't have nearly the amount of batter that rings do, so they don't hold their shape and end up "stringy." Kirk's twists the basic recipe by adding garlic to their strings, and it's just the right amount -- enough to be flavorful, but not so much that you walk away smelling like garlic. Like the fries, even the small order is an overflowing basket. I was full and still had some left over.

What really put me over the top, though, wasn't the burger or the fries, but the shake that I ordered along with them. The basic Kirk's shake ($2.45) is a blend of milk and soft-serve ice cream (out of an "Electro Freeze" machine). For an additional 15 cents you can get one of about a dozen Torani flavors, including mint, banana and mocha. Either way you'll get a thick, flavorful shake. For a dime more, you can have it made into a malt, although I found it made the shake thin, and did not add very much to the taste.

Kirk's has also started serving alcohol, with a few beers on tap and a couple of wines. I'm not sure what wine goes best with chili cheese fries, so you'll have to make that determination yourself.

Service at Kirk's was about what you would expect at a fast-food restaurant. They take your order and call your number when it's ready. You'll have to get it from the counter and bring it your table yourself. And you are expected to throw out the paper baskets your food is served in as well.

So what's the bottom line? Is it a good burger? It certainly is. Is it the best burger in town? I'm not sure, although I'll be happy to do some "comparison shopping" to find out. Is it worth it? That depends on whether or not you are willing to spend $10 for essentially a fast-food meal, albeit a good one. But if you like hamburgers, it is certainly worth at least one visit. If you love hamburgers, it's probably a safe bet you'll be back for more.

Kirk's Steakburgers,
75/76 Town & Country Village, Palo Alto, (650) 326-6159

Hours: Sun. - Thu. 9 a.m. - 10 p.m.; Fri. - Sat. 9 a.m. - 11 p.m.

Atmosphere: Like an old diner -- clean but unpretentious.
Highlights: Steakburger ($4.25); french fries and munchers (both $1.59 for a small order)
Price Range: Burgers $4.25-$6.95; sides $1.59 - $3.99
Reservations: No
Credit Cards: Yes
Valet and lot Parking: No/Yes
Alcohol: Yes
Takeout: Yes
Highchairs: Yes
Wheelchair access: Yes
Banquet: No
Catering: No
Outdoor seating: Yes
Noise level: Medium
Bathroom: Average