Sicilian style Sicilian style (December 12, 2003)

Palermo serves up solid Italian dishes in a cozy setting

By Dale F. Bentson

Palermo Rotisserie oozes with personality and character in an era when most successful restaurants follow formulas prescribed by restaurant design superstars.

At its heart is Giovanni Toccagino, who left his home in Palermo, Sicily, when he was 19 and worked his way around the Italian Riviera learning the restaurant business as he progressed. He immigrated to the United States in 1970 and built on his culinary skills as a private chef. When he opened Palermo a dozen years ago, he used that expertise and incorporated it into dishes his mother used to prepare in Sicily. In its infancy, Toccagino would man the kitchen and the dining room.

"Now I spend about half my time in the kitchen and half my time in the dining room talking with my patrons," he said.

It is a family affair, as son Giovanni Jr. and daughter Oriana also work in the dining room.

"My wife worked here for 10 years, too, but now she has other duties to attend to."

A basket of bread accompanied the menu. Half the basket was filled with standard Italian bread but the rest were house-made "finger breads." Soft and flavorful, half of each roll was sprinkled with grated cheese. The basket was accompanied by a dish of softened butter, though I would have preferred a pungent Italian olive oil in which to dip this fine bread.

The Combination Lupara ($10.95) was a large, delightful plate of roasted red and yellow bell peppers and eggplant with garlic, mint, vinegar and olive oil. I loved the Artichokes Messina ($11.95). Fresh baby artichoke hearts had been braised and doused in olive oil and garlic and served in a light clear stock that had been sprinkled with fresh grated parmesan cheese.

One evening, a special Carpese Appetizer ($9.95) was offered. Razor-thin sliced salmon with a squeeze of lemon and a dusting of grated cheese was tasty and delicate, although my waiter could not tell me what part of the world the salmon hailed from.

Mozzarella Caprese ($9.95), featuring fresh cheese, Roma tomatoes, black olives and basil, was not as successful. The tomatoes were out of season and the mozzarella was overly grainy. I wish restaurants would not serve tomatoes unless they are fresh, ripe and flavorful.

Duck Tortelloni ($14.95) was a generous portion of house-made pasta stuffed with juicy breast meat served in a creamy mushroom sauce. The difference between tortellini and tortelloni is that the former begins as a circle and is stuffed, folded and sealed, while the latter is a sheet of pasta, laid flat, with the ingredients dotted along the length of the pasta sheet. The pasta is then folded and cut into squares. The appearance is different even if the taste is not. Stuffed pasta such as tortelloni, gnocchi and ravioli are made on-site at Palermo.

Penne Barese ($14.95) consisted of baby artichokes, garlic, prosciutto, sun-dried tomatoes, black olives and a touch of cream. I liked this dish very much and am heartened that Palermo utilizes artichokes in many of its dishes. The thistle-like vegetable is used much more frequently in both Italy and France than it is here. A shame, too, since we grow some of the finest artichokes in the world nearby.

One evening's special was lamb shank ($19.95). The meat was lean and fall-off-the-bone tender. It was prepared in a vegetable tomato sauce and served over creamy polenta, with perfectly cooked fresh spinach and roasted potatoes. Even my large appetite could not subdue this plate. The combination of polenta and potatoes is typically Italian and made a very high-carbohydrate plate. The lunch menu included many of the same dinner pasta dishes, but also included a half-dozen specialty sandwiches. I liked the farfalle artichokes ($8.95) -- bowtie pasta with artichokes, black olives and feta cheese in a light sauce of olive oil and white wine. The linguini New York ($12.95) was disappointing, in that the pasta was cooked limp, the clams were flavorless and the calamari and shrimp were almost nonexistent. Only the marinara sauce was worth the calories.

Leave extra room for dessert ($7 for all items). The zabaione is the finest I have had this side of the Tyrrhenian Sea. It is simply egg yolks, sugar and Marsala whipped and beaten over a double boiler until soft mounds are formed. Ideally -- as it is served at Palermo -- the zabaione coats the spoon, but is not so thick that the spoon can stand up on its own. This delightful dessert alone is worth a visit to Palermo.

Tiramisu is ubiquitous to Italian-American restaurants. The basic ingredients are eggs, mascarpone cheese, sponge cake, cream, sugar, espresso coffee and liquor -- brandy, Marsala or rum -- with cocoa or shaved chocolate as a topper.

The execution of the recipe is what is so marvelous here. The cake is light enough to float right off the plate. The delicate flavors harmonized in my mouth, causing me to momentarily close my eyes and think of the verdant, undulating Tuscan hills where this delicacy was perfected.

Cannoli -- fried wafers filled with an airy mixture of velvety ricotta -- was invented in Sicily. At Palermo, candied fruit and cocoa powder adorn the ends of this dreamy, cream-filled pastry.

On one visit there was but one waitperson attending to the entire restaurant, making service very slow. On subsequent visits, however, there were more staff and servicing was fine. The decor is non-descript yet pleasant, decorated with Sicilian memorabilia that include maps, tapestries and photographs.

The short wine list is almost all Italian, with the majority of wines coming from the country's best wine regions: Tuscany, Piedmont and Umbria. Only a couple of wines are available by the glass. Prices are reasonable, despite the current disparity between the euro and the dollar. Whites range from $25 to $60, while reds range from $29 for a Valpolicella Classico to $250 for the ultra-chic Gaja Barbaresco.

"About 10 years ago when the (Silicon Valley) boom started, things changed," Toccagino said. "A younger crowd with lots of money and no knowledge of food started to take over. They didn't want meatballs, they wanted fancy food. Now they have all gone away and I have meatballs back on the menu. My old patrons demanded it."

Palermo is that kind of cozy restaurant where good food, reasonable prices and the homey personality of the owner have kept patrons returning for years.

Information

Palermo Rotisserie
452 University Ave.
Palo Alto; (650) 321-9908

Reservations: yes
Credit cards: yes
Parking: city lots
Alcohol: beer and wine only
Children: high chairs and children's portions
Party and banquet facilities: no
Take out: yes
Noise level: moderate
Bathroom cleanliness: very good Hours: Lunch: Monday - Friday 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m.;
Dinner Sunday - Thursday 5 - 10 p.m.; Friday - Saturday 5 - 11 p.m.
Atmosphere: Cozy interior with a family-oriented ambience.
Highlights: House-made pasta and desserts

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