Think chic Italian Think chic Italian (July 30, 2004)

Pasta Pomodoro serves up simple, well-prepared food in an inviting decor

By Dale F. Bentson

The first thing I saw when I entered Pasta Pomodoro was a tot in a highchair with spaghetti smeared all over his determined face. He was having a ball gripping the slippery noodles and trying to get them in his mouth. Mom was encouraging her son while Dad coached him from a slightly safer distance. I loved the scene.

Pasta Pomodoro now occupies the space of the former Left at Albuquerque on Emerson Street. The downtown Palo Alto locale has morphed from funky Southwest Tex-Mex into smarter decor -- think chic Italian diner here.

The black-and-white tiled floor mimics black-and-white photographs on the walls. Contemporary lighting, slick garnet-colored booths, an open kitchen and vaulted, open-beamed ceiling with skylights have brightened the formerly dreary locale.

Adriano Paganini is the brainchild behind this rapidly expanding chain of 43 restaurants in California and Arizona. He is a noted chef, having worked with both Paul Bocuse in Lyon and Gualtiero Marchesi in Milan before becoming head chef at London's Hyde Park Hotel. His Pasta Pomodoro philosophy is to employ healthy, simple, fresh ingredients and bring inexpensive Italian food to the American palate. It appears to be a winning combination.

Not all Pasta Pomodoros are created equal, though. In San Francisco, for example, fresh flavorful focaccia is served, instead of the dull Italian bread provided in Palo Alto. The bread is accompanied by salsa verde, which is an appetizing derivation of pesto sauce; it just tastes better on the focaccia.

I started one dinner with cozze ($5.95), Prince Edward Island mussels steamed with garlic, herbs, butter and white wine. The bivalves were fleshy, flavorful and plentiful. Toast rounds were served to soak up the extra broth. Unfortunately, there was scant little broth to be soaked up. For the price though, I didn't register a complaint.

Polenta farcita ($4.75), an egg-less cornmeal omelet wrapped around Fontina cheese and spinach, was topped with brown butter and sage leaves. The somewhat grainy-textured polenta paired nicely with the smooth cheese and stringy, slightly bitter spinach. It was a pleasant dish and a good first course.

The Gamberi ($6.95), a melange of sauteed shrimp with lemon, garlic, butter and a white wine sauce, were served with grilled rustic bread. This antipasto possessed sharper flavors than other appetizers and was excellent with a glass of Antinori Orvieto ($4.95 per glass; $19 per bottle). The high-acid wine complemented and cut through the slight pungency of the dish.

I liked the Minestrone soup ($1.75 cup; $3.95 bowl). Chock full of vegetables, the broth was fresh and as fragrant as a fresh vegetable garden; the price was astounding. I loved the Tortellini soup ($3.75 cup; $5.50 bowl). The beef broth was rich, velvety and loaded with large chunks of chewy stewed beef and plump tortellini pillows.

Pasta Pomodoro makes some of its own pasta, but won't say which. A company spokesperson told me that information was proprietary, although I am not sure why it is such a secret. No matter, it is a minor point for this pasta emporium. The noodles were good no matter who made them.

Spaghetti Polpette ($7.50) offered old-fashioned, homemade spaghetti-and-meatballs in an ever-so-slightly piquant tomato sauce. The chunky meatballs were made from beef, Italian sausage, red onion, egg, butter, oil, spices and breadcrumbs. It was rather dull eating but certainly filling. It was better with a glass of the house red, a Montepulciano Sangiovese from the Chianti region ($3.95 per glass).

The Fettucine Alfredo ($7.50; add $1.95 for a few slivers of grilled chicken) was ponderously heavy and creamy and I could barely get through half the plate. The dense sauce compacted the pasta and it was far easier to consume with knife and fork than spoon and fork. Alfredo sauce is simply made with a wisp of garlic, and lots of cream, butter and parmesan cheese. This is not a dish for dieters or those seeking a low-carb intake.

The Gemelli ($7.95), a corkscrew pasta dish loaded with grilled, smoked chicken, sun-dried tomatoes and roasted mushrooms, was tossed in a light creamy sauce. The delicate smoked meat had been transformed to the color and texture of ham, yet retained its modest chicken flavor.

I also enjoyed the Ravioli Di Margo ($7.95); plump little pasta pillows filled with spinach and covered with a quilt of bright red tomato-basil sauce (Gorgonzola sauce was also an option). The ravioli were tender, healthy and enjoyable. Pasta Pomodoro will substitute whole wheat pasta for any dish at no charge or low-gluten, high-protein pasta for $1.

There are a handful of non-pasta dishes from which to choose, as well. One such option, Salsiccie ($8.50), contained three juicy, grilled Sicilian-style sausages -- coiled tubes -- browned and served with fat cannelloni beans, chopped tomato and arugula.

Dessert is an equally inexpensive venture. Panna Cotta ($4.25) was better than I had expected. The gelled custard was buoyant and delicate. It came with strawberries that had been unsuccessfully marinated in lemon and grappa, an Italian grape-based, clear 80-proof spirit. Unfortunately, the strawberries, if they were fresh in the first place, were shriveled and gloppy.

Ricotta and mascarpone cheesecake ($4.25) was decent enough, with pine nuts and an amaretto-flavored crust bathed in a pool of strawberry puree; an unnecessary swirl of whipped cream sat to the side.

Simifreddo alla Nocciole ($4.95) was a faintly tempting, lightly flavored hazelnut espresso ice-cream cake. Tiramisu ($4.25) had three tiny ladyfingers tunneled inside a cloud of mascarpone cream, espresso and cocoa powder. Not bad for the price, but it could have been "cakier" and less creamy.

I was impressed with the service at Pasta Pomodoro. On every visit I encountered a different server and found each to be pleasant, knowledgeable and eager to please. The kitchen was prompt, allowing ample time to get to the Aquarius or Stanford Theatres. General Manager Danica Revelo and restaurant manager Gary McNamara are running a smooth operation.

It's a movable feast as well, with every item available for take-out. The wine list is brief, inexpensive and practical, matching the style of fare. With an inviting decor, excellent service and simple, well-prepared Italian dishes, Pasta Pomodoro is a welcome addition to downtown Palo Alto's dining scene. It already has a Gerber Baby's seal of approval.

Dining Notes

Pasta Pomodoro
445 Emerson St. in Palo Alto; 325-4400
www.pastapomodoro.com

Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.11 a.m.-11 p.m.;
Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sun. 12-10 p.m.
Reservations: yes
Credit cards: yes
Parking: city lots
Alcohol: wine and beer
Children: highchairs
Outdoor dining: no
Party and banquet facilities: yes
Take out: yes Catering: yes
Noise level: moderate
Bathroom cleanliness: average

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