From pizza to pasta From pizza to pasta (August 13, 2004)

La Strada transforms former Pizza A Go-Go site into sophisticated venue

By Dale F. Bentson

When the downtown Palo Alto space now occupied by La Strada was inhabited by Pizza A Go-Go the walls were adorned with a surfing motif. The transformation has been remarkable.

A lofty, open-beamed ceiling, with gently washed walls in tones of ochre and mustard, fresh flowers, contemporary lighting, candles and crisp white linens atop bare wood tables create a relaxed, understated sophistication.

There is a lot more to La Strada though than a snazzy d_cor, including outstanding Italian regional dishes, a lively, knowledgeable wait staff and a well-crafted wine list. Chef-partner Donato Scotti has put together an exciting Italian menu based on recipes handed down through his family in Bergamo, Lombardy.

"We make authentic dishes, very simple but very, very fresh," said Scotti. The wonderful housemade ravioli, for instance, is boat-shaped rather than square.

The appetizers alone make visiting La Strada worthwhile. One evening we started with Frascatella salad ($7), a lively mix of fava beans and watercress, well dressed, in extra virgin olive oil with a breath of lemon and shaved pecorino cheese.

Soncino e Farro ($6.50), a tasty, comforting salad that combined m_che lettuce with organic spelt (a type of wheat grain often found in European soups and salads) was clad in a shallot vinaigrette dressing with Crescenza cheese (a soft, sweet cow's milk cheese from Lombardy).

I was not disappointed in the Chitarrine con Sugo d' Angello ($12.50), thin housemade pasta blanketed beneath a luscious layer of braised lamb in red wine sauce. The lamb was slow-cooked, tender shards from the shank. The gravy was thick and rich, and I happily employed a chunk of bread to scrape the remaining sauce from the bowl.

The wonderful boat-shaped ravioli is called Casonsei alla Bergamasca ($12.95). I had it filled with housemade sausage that had been sweetened with a splash of amaretto and topped with brown butter, sage and crispy guanciale (a sweet bacon). The thick-cut pasta was ideally suited to the richly flavored dish.

Pollento alla Diavola ($14.95), tender, grilled "natural" chicken marinated in a medley of peppers, was served with roasted asparagus and rosemary Yukon potatoes. The fleshy chicken retained some tang from the peppers while the agreeable vegetables infused additional texture and color to the dish.

Desserts were uniformly marvelous. The Soffiato di Cioccolato ($6) was a warm, creamy chocolate mini souffl_ drizzled with coffee sauce and a scoop of vanilla gelato on the side. Allow extra preparation time for this worthwhile dessert.

The exceptional spongy layered Tiramisu ($5) was served in a glass sundae dish. The light and airy cake, soaked in coffee from Gianni Frasi, one of Italy's premier roasters, imparted a hint of walnut flavor. Drizzled with caramel sauce and buried under shavings of chocolate, this rendition has my vote for best in the area.

La Strada is another grand improvement along the University Avenue dining corridor. It has an attentive, knowledgeable wait staff, inspired food, colorful inviting decor and an excellent wine list.

Dining Notes

La Strada
335 University Ave., Palo Alto
324-8300, www.lastradapaloalto.com
Hours; Monday-Wednesday 11:30 a.m.-10:00 p.m.;
Thursday-Saturday 11:30 a.m.-11:00 p.m.;
Brunch Sunday 10:30 a.m.-3:00 p.m.

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