Flavors Flavors (August 13, 2004)

Baby artichokes

By Robert Rich

With their layered leaves and soft hearts, artichokes are like no other vegetables. What also sets them apart is a bitter chemical called cynarin that changes the way we taste surrounding foods.

For example, cynarin causes most wines to taste strange. But others, such as the delicate, crisp Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand, have a grassy, grapefuity profile that complements artichokes.

Cynarin also appears to lower cholesterol and has become a popular herbal extract.

Here's a Northern Italian dish that uses six baby artichokes, the smaller thistles that grow low on the artichoke bush. Baby artichokes cost less than the big ones that grow at the crown of the bush.

Remove all the tough outer leaves, until you reach the soft pale green leaves inside. Cut off the top to remove spines and fibrous tips, then slice lengthwise in half.

With a spoon, pry out spiny inner leaves and fine hairs on top of the artichoke heart. This creates a small indent which you can stuff. Keep as much of the stem as possible, but trim the bottom tip of the stem if it's dry. Dribble the cut halves with lemon juice.

In a large covered skillet, add two tablespoons olive oil and bring to medium heat. Place the artichoke halves face down to brown for about five minutes. Then, add three cups dry vermouth to the pan. Cover and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes.

Flip the halves over, outer side down. Top with pine nuts and grated Romano cheese. Add two drops of Worcestershire sauce and a few grains of sea salt, then cover again for 20 minutes. Deglaze with additional dry vermouth to prevent burning. Serve as an appetizer for three to six people.

E-mail Robert Rich at flavors@rrich.com

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