Wine Points Wine Points (August 27, 2004)

Flavors

By Robert Rich

In the last decade or so, avid wine consumers have become so familiar with the 100-point scoring system that many won't buy wines without numbers attatched.

Numerical scores took off after wine critic Robert Parker began using them in his newsletter "Wine Advocate" in 1978. Now ubiquitous, the system proved excellent for marketing. Wineries can often raise prices after scores of 90 and above.

Parker intended numerical scores to act as a shorthand consumer guide, scaled from 50 to 100, like letter grades in school. Scores from 80 to 90 show a good solid wine, while scores of 90 and above show exceptional quality.

Like in school, grade inflation can creep in. I rarely see wines rated under 80. Some critics show more restraint than others but, on market shelves, we see scores from the most generous reviews. It's clear why -- high numbers sell wine.

A single number cannot communicate nuance. It often rewards wines that pack the biggest punch, while undervaluing those whose lightness and finesse helps them pair well with food. As with any review, the reviewer's bias also informs the score. Numbers mean more when we learn the preferences of the reviewer.

Good descriptions convey more than summary numbers. Most wine lovers use associative terms, like "blackberry, butter, chocolate and vanilla" to indicate flavor and fragrance. Such terms reflect the fruit, acidity, tannins, oak, terroir and winemaker's style.

Educated shoppers can ask for the qualities that they like in a wine, instead of just looking at scores. Most good wine shops know their stock well enough that they can recommend something to please both palate and pocket.

E-mail Robert Rich at flavors@rrich.com

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