A feast for gods and mortals A feast for gods and mortals (September 10, 2004)

Evvia offers divine Greek food

By Dale F. Bentson

From the beginning, the gods smiled on Greece, bestowing upon it medicine, drama, democracy, philosophy and, of course, the Olympics.

Add to that heavenly isles, azure skies, cobalt blue seas and divine food. According to mythology, Greek cuisine evolved from the marriage of Zeus to the goddess Hera on the island of Evvia. The king of the gods ordered the wedding feast to be shared with his beloved Greek mortals.

Almost a decade ago Evvia opened to rave reviews and continues to draw enthusiastic crowds. The tempting Greek-Mediterranean menu changes with the seasons but the service still reflects old-world hospitality. Executive chef Michael Dotson, veteran of Heirloom Restaurant in Sonoma and Plumpjack in San Francisco and Lake Tahoe, ably prepares feasts fit for gods and mortals.

The decor can be described as Greek rustic revival, formal yet relaxed. Garlic braids and copper pots hang from the mantle that spans the length of the kitchen. The rear back-lit wall is bejeweled with colorful bottles, pottery and ceramics. With a huge fireplace, linen-covered tables, fresh flowers, hardwood floors, cozy seating and a friendly, knowledgeable wait staff, what's not to like?

Evvia excels right from the start with its small savory appetizers, known as mezethes. I savored the grilled octopus salad ($11.95), in which the mollusks had a mild briny flavor and somewhat chewy texture. The kitchen spiked the salad with lemon, oregano, garlic and olive oil. The appealing aromatic balm of herbs and citrus teased the nose. The result was an introduction to a cuisine that Aphrodite must have kissed.

Spanakotiropita ($8.95) is one of several Greek dishes American diners might recognize. Papery phyllo dough were stuffed with spinach, dill and Epiros feta cheese (sheep's milk feta from the northern region of Greece) then baked. The result was a low-fat spinach pie even Apollo would appreciate.

I found the yogurt dumplings with pork belly ($8.95) unusual and flavorful. The delicate dumplings were held together with Greek yogurt (thicker and richer than our yogurt), egg, nutmeg, parmesan cheese and flour. The pork belly had been cured in salt and herbs for two days then braised in veal stock with vegetables. Finally, the pork was cubed and browned with the dumplings, cured lemon and cherry tomatoes -- old world recipes, according to Dotson.

On warm nights, I recommend the buoyant and creamy chilled cucumber and avocado soup ($7) made with Greek yogurt, mint and pickled eggplant. The classic Greek salad ($7.95) of tomatoes, cucumbers, green pepper, red onion, olives, feta and oregano tossed in olive oil was equally refreshing. Evvia is a marathon of good food, so pacing is very important.

Perhaps the most famous Greek dish is Moussaka ($19.95). The satisfying baked casserole of lamb ragout (ground lamb, vegetables, a drop of wine), eggplant and potatoes was topped with yogurt bechamel sauce. A wisp of allspice and nutmeg gave the dish an intriguing earthiness.

Braised lamb shank ($21.95) sat atop a bed of orzo, (tiny melon seed-shaped pasta), and myzithra, a sheep's cheese with a nutty flavor and cottony texture. The delicious meat was fall-off-the-bone tender and juicy. I would recommend this dish for those with heartier appetites.

Four thick, rib-cut, mesquite-grilled lamb chops ($26.95; $15.95 half order) rubbed with olive oil, garlic, lemon and oregano were stacked like a pyramid over fried potato wedges. The large chops were juicy yet lean. With glistening fingers, my companion attacked the bone to get every last shred of meat.

The Wolfe Farm quail ($18.95) nested atop pre-soaked salt cod and potato puree (cream, butter, olive oil) was accompanied by organic peas and cured lemon. The meaty quail was lean and delicate with a sweet, nutty flavor.

No part of Greece is more than 85 miles from the sea. Accordingly, Greek cuisine is suffused with seafood. One example is Tai snapper ($18.95), which, though not a true snapper -- it was misnamed by Captain James Cook in 1770 and is actually a member of the sea bream family -- is similar in both texture and flavor to snapper. Dotson slightly charred the grilled fish, which brought out its subtle flavor. Tiered over a white bean puree, he topped the dish with eggplant and olive tapenade.

Grilled halibut ($19.95) came with a flavorful combination of torpedo onion and potato swirled in a cockle stew. Cockles are heart-shaped, burrowing bivalves with a chewy texture and mild flavor.

My Achilles heel is dessert. No wonder: the ultra-creamy Greek yogurt (Yiaourti, $8), marooned in a puddle of honey and topped with walnuts, was splendidly overfilling. The most famous Greek dessert, baklava, ($8) composed of phyllo pastry layers and chopped nuts, oozed honey-flavored syrup. Zingy lemon ice cream counterbalanced the sweet gooiness of the honey.

A word to the wise: Evvia's coffee ($5) -- stone-ground to powder and heated over hot sand -- is not for the faint of heart. The demi-tasse I sipped was so strong and bitter it would have made Adonis prematurely bald. The waiter graciously deducted it from the bill.

The significant wine list is equally represented by California and Europe, with nearly two-dozen wines available by the glass. Corkage fee is $20. I shared an excellent Greek rosé, Akakies (2002 -- terribly overpriced at $40 -- but it possessed a luminous cherry color and a nose of cardamom and red plum. Very dry, it had enough acidity to pair handsomely with any food on the menu, yet, was wonderfully light for warm summer evenings.

Evvia is ever-busy and reservations are strongly advised by manager Meredith Smith. It can be deafening inside, with pounding background music adding to the overall tumult of crowded tables and noisy diners. It is challenging to enjoy much conversation here, so come for the food, not the discourse.

Dining Notes

Evvia
420 Emerson St., Palo Alto
326-0983
Hours: Lunch: Monday - Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner Monday -
Thursday 5:30 - 10 p.m.; Friday - Saturday 5 - 11 p.m.; Sunday 5 - 9 p.m.

Reservations: yes
Web site: evvia.net
Credit cards: yes
Parking: city lots & valet
Alcohol: full bar
Children: yes
Outdoor dining: no
Party and banquet facilities: no
Take out: yes
Catering: yes
Noise level: loud
Bathroom cleanliness: excellent

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