Stylized Mexican cuisine Stylized Mexican cuisine (October 22, 2004)

Cafe Del Sol presents food with a fun, decorative flair

By Elaine Rowland

There's no shortage of Mexican restaurants on the Peninsula, so Cafe Del Sol has chosen to stand out from the crowd of Americanized and traditional Mexican places by offering "contemporary Mexican cuisine."

It differs most notably from traditional Mexican food in its use of sauces and the architectural presentation of the dishes (perhaps shades of the chef's Spago background). Chips artfully decorate the food, while non-classical sauces, such as mango and aioli, are drizzled into designs on the plate. The result: a kind of south-of-the-border nouvelle cuisine.

Although Cafe del Sol opened in March 2003 as a Mediterranean restaurant, chef Uriel Gonzalez has returned to the native cuisine he grew up with to inspire his Mexican food for modern tastes.

To set the scene, owners Uriel and Emilia Gonzalez have created a contemporary dining space with modern paintings of Mexico, a cheery chili pepper-themed stencil motif and current Mexican music. The paper tablecloths may intimate "bargain food," though the presentation and very polite wait staff elevate the experience in this quiet little restaurant.

I had no problem getting a table for lunch and dinner. Lunch starts with complimentary chips and salsas (fresca and verde). I liked the fresh chunks of tomato and onion in the fresca but felt the verde was a little too tame; the crispy chips were nice even without salsa.

The Tamal de Pollo ($5.75) special was filled with shredded chicken, with a moist and delicious corn masa outside (steaming the tamale in a corn husk is key, apparently). The chef drizzled the dish with a savory chipotle cream sauce and cilantro aioli (garlic sauce), sprinkled it with crumbled cheese and added salsa fresca, guacamole, Spanish rice, refried beans and mango salsa.

Not every side was perfect: the guacamole was a little oily and the refried beans were a little bland. But together the sides' flavors worked so well that they even made great toppings for each other. Who knew how versatile a mango salsa could be?

I'd order the tamale again, but perhaps not the black bean soup. The cup of soup ($3.25) offered whole beans in a broth with tomatoes and onions. It was like eating a cup of cilantro-cooked beans and sauce. It didn't taste like a soup that had been simmered slowly together to blend and enhance the flavors.

At dinnertime, the house appetizer is crunchy taquitoes stuffed with mashed potatoes and served with chips, salsa fresca and guacamole. They, too, are drizzled with two sauces, at which point it occurred to me that unlike many Mexican restaurants, I wasn't asked if I wanted anything "hot or mild?" Food was flavorful without being spicy.

The Camarones del Sol ($9) -- six shrimp sauteed in tequila -- were served with a kicky mango sauce and a chipotle sauce that tasted magnificently of smoked peppers. The dish was artfully embellished with cacti and sun faces drawn in several pools on the plate. The shrimp were slightly mushy, but with all the sauces in concert, it was a creative, laudable combination.

Tampiquena Grilled Filet Mignon ($18) was my first filet mignon outside of a steakhouse. It was rarer than I ordered and not as tender as I hoped; however, the grilled crust had a very nice citrus flavor (Tampiquena steaks are typically brushed with lime) and was deftly cooked. It was complemented by the skewer of roasted vegetables (jalapeno, onion, tomato), salsa fresca and even the refried beans that came with it.

We also tried the red snapper, ranchero-style ($15; there's a garlic version, too). It had the same accompaniments as my lunch special, substituting green cilantro rice for the red tomato rice. The snapper was an average fish cooked well and, again, greatly enhanced by the sides.

Cafe del Sol offers two desserts: flan (naturally) and a fried banana dish ($4.95). Served with vanilla ice cream, chocolate flavoring and whipped cream, the fried banana is about as calorie-naughty as it gets, but as you enjoy the crunchy-creamy dish, console yourself with the fact that you're eating fruit, somewhere underneath it all.

The only thing unusual about the drink offerings was finding a Stag's Leap Merlot ($44) in the same price range as a Lindeman's Chardonnay ($38) on the wine list. Other than that, sodas, coffee, sangria and many Mexican beers like Negra Modelo ($3.25) are available. I recommend cappuccino over regular coffee ($1.95), as the coffee I ordered tasted as if it had cooked on the burner a while. Wine is also available by the glass (from $4.75 to $8.50).

Cafe del Sol specializes in variety, offering pork, beef, chicken, vegetarian and seafood dishes. The best reason to go is to try foods that aren't standard on a Chili's menu.

Be sure to try each food with all the sides and sauces: Uriel has done a good job of strategizing flavors. And if the filet or shrimp aren't the finest, well, the French discovered long ago that a great sauce or two can really make the meal (especially if you like cilantro).

Dining Notes

Cafe Del Sol Restaurant
1010 Doyle Street (corner of Menlo Avenue)
Menlo Park, 326-2501

Highlights: The exotic dishes (such as those with mango sauce) seem to provide the more interesting and tasty experience. That said, the tamale was excellent. Dishes are presented with a fun, decorative flair.
Atmosphere: Quiet, contemporary restaurant with a casual setting and service you'd expect from a more expensive establishment.

Hours: Lunch Mon. - Sun. 11 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.; dinner Mon. - Sat. 5-10 p.m.
Reservations:yes
Credit Cards: yes
Parking: street and nearby lots
Beer & Wine: yes
Takeout: yes
Catering: yes
Wheelchair access: yes, but access to the bathroom may be challenging
Highchairs: yes (boosters, too)
Outdoor seating: no
Banquet: yes (20-40 people)
Noise Level: quiet
Bathroom Cleanliness: above average

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