Flavors Flavors (October 22, 2004)

Sichuan pepper

By Robert Rich

Sichuan peppercorns form an integral part of Asian cooking, with their unique tart spiciness. They taste like a combination of sour lemon, black pepper, clove and ginger, with a residual sweet/sour finish lingering around the edges of the tongue.

Also called hua jiao (hua 'do) in Mandarin, flower pepper, or fagara, Sichuan pepper comes from the dried berries of the prickly ash tree. It forms an essential part of Chinese five-spice powder. Japanese cooks powder the prickly ash leaves, called sansho, to flavor soups and fatty fish.

Sichuan pepper has become scarce in the last few years, due to a USDA Plant Protection Quarantine. Apparently some shipments carry citrus canker bacteria, a disease that threatens orange and lime groves in California and Florida.

Distributors can legally sell Sichuan pepper imported before May 2002, or which has tested negative for citrus canker. The USDA can confiscate for analysis any shipment of the pepper that they discover entering the country, rendering this spice into borderline contraband.

Legal imports of hua 'do still trickle through Canada. We're lucky to live in a neighborhood with many Asian herb markets, most of which carry Sichuan peppercorns at prices ranging from $2 to $5 per ounce. Try to find whole peppercorns rather than powder. The powder loses its tangy freshness. Japanese sansho makes a milder substitute.

You can deepen the flavors of hua 'do by pan toasting the kernels on a hot dry cast iron skillet or wok for a few minutes, stirring often. You can add some coarse sea salt before toasting the pepper to fume the salt with the aromatic vapors. This blend forms the key ingredient to Chinese "salt and pepper" sauce.

Grind the toasted salt/pepper blend in a spice mill just before using. Try sprinkling it onto grilled salmon or chicken. It also brings out the sweet flavors in duck, lamb or other gamey meats. Add a pinch to salad dressing to add spicy tartness. A little goes a long way.

E-mail Robert Rich at flavors@rrich.com

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