Flavors Flavors (November 12, 2004)

Heritage turkeys

By Robert Rich

Centuries before we relegated turkey to holiday fare, the North American bird played a pivotal role in the diet of the natives, and probably saved the lives of European settlers during the harsh winter of 1620.

Spanish traders had already imported the wild birds to Turkey in the 16th century, where Northern Europeans confused them with Guinea fowl and dubbed the bird "turkey" to honor their supposed nation of origin.

By the late 18th century, turkeys had become so important to Americans that Benjamin Franklin famously suggested it for the national symbol instead of the bald eagle. Franklin's wild bird looked little like what we eat today.

Although wild turkeys are now protected, farmers have bred domesticated turkeys for at least 200 years. Many of the original breeds have nearly vanished, ousted in the 1960s by the ubiquitous "broad breasted white" variety, which has a bland flavor and more white meat than older breeds.

Modern factory-raised turkeys become so misshapen that they cannot mate naturally. They live in pens and are fed by automation, with frequent doses of antibiotics.

In contrast, some of the older breeds like the Narragansett, which fed our nation's founders, take longer to grow and thrive outdoors. Raising these turkeys requires a more personal touch, but the birds live healthier lives. The resulting meat has more flavor and is less prone to dryness.

With help from the Slow Food movement, Heritage turkeys are making a comeback. Currently, six farms in California have dedicated themselves to raising these hardy older breeds and more could follow soon.

In previous years, it was necessary to pre-order Heritage turkeys directly from the farmers or through the auspices of Slow Food. This year, they can be bought locally at select quality grocers.

You can find Heritage turkeys at nearby Draeger's, Andronico's and Mollie Stone's markets. They cost more than generic turkey at about $4 per pound but, in my opinion, they're well worth the price.

E-mail Robert Rich at flavors@rrich.com

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