Flavors Flavors (November 26, 2004)

Dry rosé Dry rosé (November 26, 2004)

By Robert Rich

With holiday feasts dominated by turkey, it's worth considering the wines that bring the best out of big birds. When pairing wine with turkey, avoid the big tannic reds like cabernet, syrah or zinfandel. Tannins bring out metallic flavors from the otherwise sweet earthy taste of turkey. Dry rosé and soft red wines like pinot noir or Beaujolais nouveau accentuate the meat's deeper flavors.

We often overlook rosé, in part because it earned such a bad reputation as jug wine or sweet white zinfandel. In the last few years, California winemakers have been making some exceptional dry rosés, with complexity and crisp acidity that help them pair elegantly with many dishes.

The wines below impressed me with their food-friendly freshness and good value. The prices noted reflect what I paid at Beverages & More in Mountain View, except for the Tablas Creek, which I ordered direct from the winery.

* Marques de Cáceres Rosé, Rioja, Spain ($7). Value priced, with light flavors. Musky grassy nose hints at unripe pineapple and brambles. Brightly spicy with some oceanic minerals.

* Grandes Serres Rosé, Tavel, France ($10). Complex and fresh fragrances, with win ter melon, light berry and limestone. Tart raspberries on the palate; citric acidity resembles Chinese bitter melon and lime.

* Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare ($10). Supple and fruity despite full dryness. Fresh peach and plum perfumes, dusty minerals, grapefruit. Light exotic flavors of rose hips and strawberry; an excellent value.

* Roshambo Syrah Rosé, Dry Creek Valley CA ($15). Surprisingly serious blush with earthy aromatics of cherry, strawberry, orange, dry grass, honey, and warm spices. Crisp palate of cherries and minty herbs deepens into peppery long oily finish.

* Tablas Creek Rosé, Paso Robles CA ($25, direct order: (805) 237-1231). Among my favorite rosés, though pricey and less common. Rich and smooth despite firm acidity, with plum, watermelon, ripe strawberry, limestone, hints of pepper and cocoa.

@email:E-mail Robert Rich at flavors@rrich.com

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