The luck of the Irish The luck of the Irish (December 17, 2004)

Hearty pies and stews at St. Stephen's Green

By Aimee M. Male

Short for public house, the "pub" is an Irish institution.

The local pub has always been the place for friends and neighbors to unwind and enjoy a pint and a bit of conversation after a long day. Think of it as a big, comfy living room, with the added bonus of a full bar.

Named after a famous public park in the heart of Dublin, St. Stephen's Green on Castro Street is a friendly, comfortable spot to socialize and even grab a tasty bite or two to partner with a few after-work beers.

For that's why pubs serve hearty, comforting and filling grub -- it's all about the beer. Pub food is the ultimate comfort cuisine, a perfect foil from the winter chill and a necessary barrier between an empty stomach and a few pints of ale. Stews, pies and other dishes with rich, thick sauces are de rigeur, as are potatoes prepared in the two nationally sanctioned forms, fried and mashed.

The Green's got all the trappings of a traditional pub, but it is no greasy spoon. The kitchen offers good, solid fare, prepared well and quickly. And for those, for whom a belly-full of bangers and mash sounds painful, the Green also offers American-style grill specials, along with bountiful salads.

But for a proper pub experience, I recommend you grab yourself a Guinness and try one of the Green's Irish specialties.

Meat pies -- savory bits of meat and a suggestion of vegetables wrapped in a flaky, buttery crust -- are a favorite in the British Isles. The chicken and mushroom pie ($9.95) is fantastic and comes popped out of its tin and flowing around a formidable mound of creamy mashed potatoes. The pie's top crust, crisp and golden, is perched on the potatoes like a top hat. A border of julienne carrots and zucchini create an impromptu tribute to the Irish flag, a detail I'm sure is not accidental.

A necessary dish on a rainy evening is the Irish stew ($10.50), a hearty bowl of rich, brown gravy and tender cubes of lamb, carrots and potatoes that surround a serious dollop of the Green's mashed potatoes. A complimentary side of soda bread, nutty and chewy, is great to use as a spoon to savor the last licks of the stew.

Other traditional treats include Shepherd's Pie ($9.50) -- a pie in name only. A baked layer of mashed potato covers a savory filling of minced meat and savory vegetables. But the stalwart fish and chips ($10.95) suffered from a heavy batter that resulted in a mildly gooey fish fritter.

Chicken curry and chips ($9.95) may seem an odd pairing, but it's a must-have at most pubs. Manager Des Whelan said a typical Friday night out for most revelers in London or Dublin includes a few pints at the local watering hole, then a late-night dinner stop at an Indian curry restaurant. Pubs caught on to this trend and started offering the savory and filling (but not too spicy) dish as well.

It's impossible to not order a plate of fries ($2.50) to pair with a hand-pulled Guinness ($4.75), or if you're feeling seriously peckish, try the appetizer combo ($9.95) that includes a wide assortment of fried foods.

I nabbed most of the baked potato halves, stuffed with cheese and bacon, opting to dip one in ketchup, and the other in ranch dressing. Chicken tenders fought for plate space with buffalo wings, the latter not as spicy as a buffalo wing ought to be.

But a third cup of dip contained liquid fire, a mad concoction of curry and Tabasco sauce. I left that fiery option to the whim of my dining companion and snagged the last savory potato.

And if you're just craving meat and bread, the Green is happy to accommodate. A St. Stephen's hamburger ($8.95) is a hefty half pound. The only frills were a piece of lettuce and lots of red onions. The burger was a bit tough but filling, and I could only eat half, distracted by the pile of crispy fries and ample ketchup. Oh, and my beer.

Dessert offerings are short and very sweet. I scooped up tasty bites of piping hot apple pie ($4.95) with cooling vanilla ice cream and whipped cream drizzled with caramel sauce even though I thought I didn't have any room left.

If it's not obvious by now, a pub is no place for a diet or for any low-carb fanatic desperate to fit into that slinky New Year's Eve dress. The Green, however, has a fantastic solution for those who can't say "no" to a plate of potatoes. Each night the pub offers music, live and DJ, and dancing ranging from hip-hop to Brazilian to traditional Irish music. It's a musical mix that emphasizes the "public" in pub.

St. Stephen's Green wants to be "the focal point of the community," said Whelan. From after-work revelers to sports teams to college students, the Green seeks to welcome all sorts of folk. "We gather a very diverse crowd," he said.

The staff, too, lends the Green an authentic flair, as many of his staff members hail from Ireland. Whalen is from Wexford, Ireland, while some of his employees are from England, and the Irish counties of Cork, Waterford and Dublin.

The pub will celebrate its fifth anniversary this January. With an upgrade to its dance floor and other celebrations in store, Whelan said the pub also wants to showcase more Irish culture from music to televised sporting events specific to the Emerald Isle, such as hurling. (It's a bit like hockey, without the ice, and players with no pads smacking around a very hard, small ball.)

Such cultural events are a great way to introduce people to Irish culture, he said. On Sundays the pub is open for private parties or concerts, Whelan added, and the kitchen can also provide a catered buffet for those special events.

It's a sense of hospitality and community that makes a pub a welcoming place. I enjoyed the Green's low-key, comfortable atmosphere and the friendly service. St. Stephen's Green is a great spot for casual socializing over hearty fare or simple snacks, whether for a leisurely lunch or a night out with friends.
Dining Notes

St. Stephen's Green 223 Castro Street 964-9151 www.st-stephens-green.com/mv/centerStage.html
Hours: Lunch: 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Dinner: 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m., Tuesday-Saturday. Monday and Sunday Lunch, 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Pub open from 10:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. every day.

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