Veggies, seafood, jazz -- and a complex menu Veggies, seafood, jazz -- and a complex menu (January 14, 2005)

Stoa shows promise in new location

By Elaine Rowland

Vegetarian food: the phrase strikes fear in the hearts of many, recalling soy burgers, tofu cubes and other un-meats. What scares us carnivores away from vegetarian establishments is our firm belief there's no substitute for meat.

Perhaps the better way to entice non-vegetarians to go green is celebrating the variety in vegetables, fruit and grains, instead of trying to reinvent the filet.

That is what Stoa Restaurant and Wine Bar is up to. Recently relocated from just-off Highway 101 to Emerson Street in Palo Alto, partner Yoav Gilat said Stoa was created to offer variety in dining on the Peninsula and healthy eating and as a place to avoid meat.

The result is an upscale restaurant in a high-ceilinged, rather spare setting of light cream, white and gold. On one side is a long, sleek bar with giant, dimly lit Chinese lanterns which sway gently overhead like large sea life. It's a relaxing place to peruse the eclectic wine list and order bottles, glasses, 2-oz. tastings or prepared flights. Open later than many places on the Peninsula, Stoa also plays live jazz three nights a week.

But if you're still anxious about that v-word, relax -- there's seafood on the menu, recently added at the request of the restaurant's veggie fans, who wanted a place where herbivores and carnivores could dine together in harmony.

Chef Brandon Paige, a non-vegetarian who previously worked at The Village Pub and Aqua, creates some very good dishes. A few were also uneven, but with the restaurant open only a month and a half, details are still being worked out.

Lunch started with fresh rosemary Italian bread that was crunchy and chewy. It was served with English pea pate, a colorful puree of peas, tofu, caramelized onions and walnuts that reminded me of creamy, nutty cheese. Armed with a pot of Monkey King Jasmine tea from Numi Berkeley ($3.75), I was feeling good about the whole vegetarian experience.

As water trickled down from the wall fountain and the sun poured in through large windows, I felt relaxed and Mediterranean. I ordered coriander-dusted falafel with baba ghanoush (typically eggplant puree with lemon juice, olive oil and garlic), harissa tahini sauce (sesame-seed paste with a spicy Tunisian sauce) and petite arugula salad on a bed of salt.

Inexplicably, the arugula was atop a layer of salt -- and suffered for it. The rest of the dish was better. Four little football-shaped, deep-fried croquettes were plated with wedges of thick, soft pita. The sauces were delicious and varied, accenting the pita nicely and rescuing the slightly overcooked croquettes ($8).

I had no reservations, however, about the cream of tomato soup with roasted garlic foam ($5) appetizer. It avoided the sharp edge some tomato soups have and arrived piping hot in a wide, shallow bowl. Smooth and rich, it was delicious with the rosemary bread.

Stoa's seared sea scallops ($12 for two scallops) with brown butter hominy, truffle essence, lemon cream and haricot vert salad (sliced green beans) was done right. Mastering that fine balance between rubbery and mushy, the scallops tasted fresh and mixed well with the dish's other creamy attributes.

The Brussels sprouts in sage "fondue" ($5) made a nice appetizer, winning over the non-sprout fan at the table. The sprouts were finely sliced and tossed in a thin sage cream sauce.

Pan-seared sole and oyster fritter over mushroom parmesan risotto ($18) was again thoughtfully constructed, with all flavors complementing each other. The sole didn't taste very fresh, but as a whole, the dish was very acceptable. Along with a flight of white wines (four 2-oz. glasses at $13), we enjoyed pairings for each food.

Less impressive was the house-made gnocchi with French pumpkin Alfredo, sage chips, confit hazelnuts and pumpkin lardons ($17). The gnocchi had the right firm, light texture, but the complex sauce was more interesting than fantastic. I'd rather have it as a side than entree.

Sage chips, by the way, are glazed, crisp sage leaves, and as for lardons, I didn't see anything on my plate that passed for one. But Gilat later explained they are pumpkins that have been diced, blanched and fried. The mystery remains.

We finished with the almond financiere (akin to a flourless almond cake) with vanilla cardamom sauce, and a tiny scoop of vanilla bean gelato ($7). It was a delicate dessert, in presentation, size and flavor -- quite pleasing all around.

One of Stoa's selling points is live music three nights a week. The "undefined jazz" includes two- and three-person combos who play music even non-connoisseurs will enjoy.

I'd like to see what the owners do with all this potential, with a little more time and fine-tuning.
Dining Notes

Stoa Restaurant and Wine Bar 632 Emerson St., Palo Alto; 328-2600
Hours: Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Dinner Mon.-Sun. 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Brunch Sun. 10 a.m.-2 p.m.; Wine bar Mon.-Thurs. 5:30 p.m.-12 a.m.; Fri. 5:30 p.m.-1 a.m.; Sun. 5:30-10 p.m.; Jazz at 7 p.m. on Tues., Fri. and Sat.

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