Flavors Flavors (January 14, 2005)

Wine and time

By Robert Rich

Why do some red wines get better as they age, while others collapse? When considering how long to age wine, it helps to know something about these three characteristics: fruit, acidity, tannins and oak.

When a wine shows balance between ripe fruit, medium-high acidity and firm tannins, then it can probably improve with age. Wine reviewers call this "good structure." When these flavors start weak or unbalanced, then the wine probably won't improve with time, and you should open it sooner.

Fruit: In young red wine, well-extracted fruit fills your mouth with round oily sensations, sometimes like chocolate. After a few years, this richness starts to fade. Wines meant for early consumption typically taste soft and simple, with ripe jammy flavors but low acidity and tannin.

Acidity: Acids do the most to protect wine over the years. Grapes become more acidic in cool weather, so climates with cool summers often produce wines that age well. High-acid wines can taste pinched or tingly when young, but over time the low pH reduces the destructive effects of oxygen.

Tannins: In red wine, tannins create a signature dryness on the tongue, a slightly chalky sensation. Strong tannins can taste bitter like over-brewed tea. Like acidity, tannins have antioxidant effects, protecting fruit flavors over time.

Both acidity and tannins soften with age, as they react with oxygen while protecting the fruit. If acidity or tannins are too strong, however, then the wine might always taste astringent, and those tight flavors might linger past the lifetime of the fruit.

Oak: Tannins come mostly from grape seeds, but also from oak barrels used for aging. Oak imparts its own smells and flavors, including caramel, vanilla, tobacco, cinnamon, clove. These flavors can sometimes overpower a wine, but in moderation they add complexity and smoothness.

When grapes provide "good structure," then the wine can benefit from longer contact with oak. Not only will the wine mellow in barrels, but the tannins within the oak react with grape tannins to soften their flavors.

Some of the most age-worthy wines in North America come from nearby in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The cool summers and gentle autumns help build acidity and good ripeness that often shows better in ten years than when young. You can find world-class production from Picchetti, Fellom and Ridge at local wine retailers.

E-mail Robert Rich at flavors@rrich.com

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