Flavors Flavors (January 28, 2005)

The search for bacalao

By Robert Rich

I fell in love with salt cod in Basque Spain, where they call it bacalao and consider it a national dish. I have looked for bacalao here in California, without success until I discovered Crossroads World Market.

Crossroads opened in December at 720 San Antonio Road in Palo Alto. Owner Hani Haddad came from Jordan in 1969 and opened his first Crossroads in Hayward in 1994; this is the second. He sells Mediterranean and European specialties at reasonable prices, with some rarities that fill gaps in our culinary landscape.

Here I found fresh halwa (sweet sesame cakes) from Israel, 12 kinds of fresh feta cheese, Czech beers, German Reislings and dark breads, hot mustard and roasted peppers.

In the freezer I discovered Turkish soujouk sausages, basturma (spicy cured beef) and -- to my amazement -- whole sides of salt cod. Now at last I could try to recreate the bacalao from San Sebastian.
San Sebastian Bacalao
1 fillet salt cod (1.5 lbs.) 1 onion, chopped 2-3 cups dry vermouth (or dry cider if available) 3 small Yukon Gold potatoes 2 cups asparagus, 2-inch chunks 2 cloves garlic 3 tblsp. olive oil 1 tblsp. capers, soaked 1 pinch saffron 1/2 cup half & half cream

Soak the salt cod in fresh water for two days in the fridge, changing water every 8 hours. Cut into big chunks and boil for 8 minutes in fresh water, then strain. Boil the potatoes for 15 minutes to precook, then cut into 1/4" slices.

In a large deep lidded skillet, sweat the onions in olive oil for 15 minutes, then raise heat to add potatoes to sear 5 minutes. Add cod, asparagus, garlic, capers, wine and saffron. Cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes until asparagus is tender.

Warm the cream briefly in a microwave. Lower heat in the pan to a slight simmer. Clear a space in the middle of the pan, then add the cream very slowly while whisking quickly. The cream should emulsify with the reduced wine, creating a light rich sauce fragrant with saffron. Serves 3 to 4 with rice.

E-mail Robert Rich at flavors@rrich.com

E-mail a friend a link to this story.