Jewel of the Mediterranean Jewel of the Mediterranean (June 10, 2005)

Zibibbo scores with its revamped menu

By Dale F. Bentson

When I last visited Zibibbo two years ago I thought the menu disjointed, the food marginal and wine prices preposterous.

All that has changed.

Executive Chef Matthew Broucaret has breathed new life into the local branch of a burgeoning operation that includes Zibibbo, LuLu and Azie in San Francisco; four LuLu Petites (two in Palo Alto); and a mushrooming line of packaged food.

Broucaret, a Bay Area native, trained in New York and with Thomas Keller at his Napa Valley Bouchon Bistro. The seasonally evolving Mediterranean menu has been enhanced with exciting options that are expertly prepared. Don't miss the roast duck or the red wine-braised short ribs.

"All selections are served family style -- large portions with serving utensils for sharing with the table," said Anne Galle, director of operations for the LuLu chain.

The restored Victorian house entrance on Kipling Street immediately gives way to a contemporary, lively bar leading to larger open spaces with high ceilings, snazzy lighting, open kitchen, two floors of dining and a glass garden patio that blurs the line of indoors and out. The restaurant, opened in 1997, once housed the Barbie Hall of Fame.

There are defined dining areas and the vast 280-seat restaurant exudes an intimacy one would not think apparent in an operation of this scale. The open kitchen, which anchors the center of the restaurant, is so large and frenzied that several of the key line chefs wear headsets to coordinate orders.

For starters, eight Mediterranean antipasti were offered -- any three for $13.95. Tasty eggplant caponata featured roasted, chunky tomato and eggplant tapenade with pine nuts and currants. Roasted baby beets with pecorino cheese possessed subtle fresh flavors. Only the tortilla Espanola with aioli sauce and chives was slightly askew -- served cold rather than at room temperature.

After the antipasti, the menu segues into several categories: small plates from the Mediterranean; pasta and pizza; nightly rotisserie specials; wood grills and sautes; and a medley of side dishes. It is enough to set one's head spinning. Nonetheless, all the menu items are tantalizing and the difficulty is in the choosing.

Of the small plates, the poached egg salad ($9.95) with frisee and wild ramps (similar to scallions) was dressed in warm pancetta vinaigrette. Unfortunately, the egg was over-poached, eliminating the option of blending the soft yolk into the vinaigrette.

The iron skillet-roasted mussels ($12.50) were marvelous. Served on a sizzling platter with lemon-herb butter, there were enough bivalves to satisfy three diners. The presentation was fun as well. The skillet came propped up high on a wire rack with a bowl beneath for capturing discarded shells.

Chilled asparagus ($12.50), crisp and fresh, with shavings of pecorino cheese, fresh peas, Bresaola (a type of Italian air dried beef), was all dressed in red wine vinaigrette.

Roast duck ($24.95) was Saturday's rotisserie special. The duck had been air-dried Chinese style, which allowed the skin to crisp while remaining juicy on the spit. The non-fatty bird was presented with chunks of ruby-colored rhubarb and spring onion tagine. Tagine is a traditional North African method of slow cooking by indirect heat. The result was an enormously pleasing dish.

I was slightly disappointed with the "grilled under a brick" game hen ($21.95). The idea of the brick is to sear in the juices while crisping the skin. I have enjoyed some marvelous versions in Tuscany, where the process originated. It didn't work here, though, as the bird was just too dry.

Pomegranate molasses-glazed pork loin ($16.95) is a perennial favorite at Zibibbo, according to Galle. The pomegranate was used as a grilling sauce on the tender meat, which came with garlic olive oil mashed potatoes. While I had no valid complaint about the lean pork, it needed some fat to give it flavor.

In contrast, the red wine-braised short ribs ($22.95) were marvelously flavored. Meaty chunks of rib were presented in a thick, delicious brown sauce accompanied with ramps and fresh peas. This is one dish I had a hard time wanting to share with my companions.

Oak-fired oven Atlantic salmon ($19.95) was delicate, pink and imbued with oaky, smoky flavors. The salmon was served with white beans and artichoke barigoule -- a French braised vegetable and white wine reduction mixture.

Pastry chef Tobias Diggs has put together a blue ribbon assortment of desserts. His buttermilk lavender panna cotta ($7.50) is the best I have tasted outside of Italy. Feather light, it melted instantly on the tongue. The macerated strawberries with balsamic sauce and toasted almonds added to the appeal of this lovely dish.

The sophisticated dark chocolate parfait ($7.50) was not the traditional American pudding served in a fluted glass. Diggs made it in the French style with an added twist. He enveloped the custard in chocolate puff pastry, then froze it in a terrine mold, later slicing individual servings. He concluded the presentation with a dollop of pistachio ice cream just before serving.

Less successful were the warm apple-walnut crepes with rum sauce and vanilla ice cream ($7.50). Perhaps, because I was seated upstairs one evening, the crepes arrived at room temperature. The ice cream was not melted though, indicating that is the way it left the kitchen. In any case, the cooled results did not reveal much flavor.

The service was professional on each of my visits and the staff knowledgeable. The evening we sat upstairs the service was slower and we were sandwiched between two large, noisy parties. Try to avoid this situation, if possible, unless you are going with a group.

Zibibbo has a stellar wine list with many selections available by the glass. The 32-page list contains wines from every major wine-growing district on the planet. From the $24 Obester Riesling to the $1,000-plus Romanee Conti, I could write a feature just on the magnificent wines represented on the list.

By today's standards, the wines are fairly priced and there is something to fit every budget. Help is available and diners should never be afraid to tell the waiter or wine steward how much they want to spend for wine. The staff is delighted to help. If you want to bring something special from home, corkage is $20.

LuLu Petite is located on the Waverley Street side of Zibibbo and is open Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. LuLu Petite is designed for food on the go with pastries, soups, quiche, hot and cold sandwiches, salads and sweets. There are a half-dozen tables if you prefer to eat on-site. The menu is decidedly gourmet yet the prices are sane.

My favorites were the Portobello mushroom sandwich ($6.95) with roasted tomato harissa (a spicy North African condiment), sweet peppers and feta served on herbed focaccia. Another was the egg salad sandwich ($6.50) with truffled artichoke tapenade served on a Kaiser roll. Cucumber remoulade on green olive and fennel sourdough is perfect for summer months. In all, there are nearly a dozen and a half tempting sandwiches.

There is also a LuLu Petite inside the new University Circle at Highway 101.
Zibibbo Reservations: yes Credit cards: yes Parking: valet Alcohol: full bar Children: yes Outdoor dining: patio Party and banquet: yes Take out: yes Catering: yes Noise level: high Bathroom cleanliness: excellent
Zibibbo, 430 Kipling St.; Palo Alto; (650) 328-6722; www.restaurantlulu.com. Hours: Lunch and Dinner: Monday-Thursday 11:30 a.m.-10 pm; Friday 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; Saturday 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.

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