Country Gourmet a culinary treat Country Gourmet a culinary treat (June 17, 2005)

Speedy home-style cooking and self-serve too

By Elaine M. Rowland

There's probably a sociological basis for the popularity of cafeteria-style dining in the Southern states. Whatever the case, once you leave the South, cafeterias get fewer and farther between.

So, on hearing about Country Gourmet's cafeteria-like restaurant on the corner of El Camino Real and Rengstorff Avenue, this Southerner went to investigate. What I found was reminiscent of the semi-self-serve hospitality of those Southern institutions where two-plus generations of family gather 'round the table.

Decorated with trompe l'oeil windows and live plants, this one is homier and friendlier-looking than many of its Southern cousins. It also serves better food, with fresh-scrubbed enthusiasm, for breakfast, lunch, brunch and dinner. But I still recognized the same tots squirming around their parents, alongside 30-somethings dining with their parents, alongside connoisseurs of the Senior Discount, which kicks in here at 2:30 every day. Good eatin'

While some of the near-two-decade popularity of Mountain View's Country Gourmet (no longer affiliated with Sunnyvale's) must surely derive from the prominent NO CELL PHONES sign on the front door, that's probably not what drew the owners of all those luxury imports I saw in the parking lot. It's the home-style cooking and the friendly atmosphere. True, there's no culinary epiphanies here, but no great missteps, either.

For those who've never been to Country Gourmet, here's a couple tips to navigate their "modified self service," as they call it. Before sitting down, choose from the menu or the overflowing specials boards created by Consulting Chef Jimmy Connors of Gordon Biersch, San Jose fame. Order and pay at the counter, and you'll be given a little plastic card to display on your table. Seat yourself and your server locates you shortly, bearing food. You'll have to fetch your own coffee, soda ($1.75), or water, though some drinks are brought to you -- it's not always clear which are self-serve, so ask. And though there's no booze for sale, they'll uncork any wine you bring, gratis. As for tipping, the restaurant's menu recommends a tip of "6 percent or 8 percent."

If you're in the mood for comfort food, the cooked-to-order CG Burger ($8.95) is big and surprisingly full of flavor. Any burger cooked well-done that retains juiciness and flavor is an impressive patty. Served on a sesame bun with red onions, tomato and lettuce to dress it, it comes with a side of fruit, polenta or home-style red potatoes -- i.e. hash browns with onions; hope you like paprika.

I liked the burger even better than the Niman Ranch pork tenderloin special ($12.95). The batter coating didn't protect the chop from being overdone and dry, though the balsamic marinade helped out. However, I really liked the side of creamy scalloped potatoes with black olives, a very nice combination. The other side -- a forest of bright-green broccoli -- was healthfully steamed, unlike its Southern counterpart, which is simmered into submission.

For the most important part of the meal, we enjoyed giant slabs of carrot cake ($3.95) and coconut cake ($3.95). You could go for smaller desserts like brownies or lemon bars ($1.95), but I figure you only live once. I'm also no carrot cake fan, usually, but I converted after this one, which was moist and tasted like gingerbread with walnuts, raisins and a creamy icing. In comparison, the coconut cake was heavier and a little drier, but still tasted fine, slathered in coconut cream icing. The elusive brunch

The brunch crowd at CG presents a slightly different cross-section of Silicon Valley: the same families with small children dining on "the Back Porch," but also more yuppie dates (brunch seems a pretty yuppie meal to begin with). Reliable brunch places are often in short supply, and this one is popular. The real advantage of the modified self-serve becomes apparent when your meal is ready so quickly. You'd wait quite a bit longer for brunch at Hobees.

The oak roasted self-serve coffee ($1.75) didn't knock my socks off, but what did impress me was the taste and size of a big Odwalla OJ ($3.95): they do not skimp on juice here. Apple juice (small, $2.25) is the unfiltered, old-fashioned kind, packed with flavor.

Of course you'll find pancakes on the menu: The buttermilk pancakes with mango-orange syrup special (7.95) is topped with shredded coconut and whipped butter. The cakes were fluffy, and I liked the thick fruit syrup, an interesting departure from maple. I wasn't as satisfied with the side of premium smoked ham (two slices for $2.95), which was a little thin and not very smoky.

Eggs benedict ($8.95 for a full order; half orders available) with a side of red potatoes is served on a buttermilk biscuit instead of an English muffin, which makes the dish more stick-to-your-ribs. Though we found the Hollandaise sauce a tad bland, the eggs were cooked just right and the biscuit brought back memories of breakfasts at Cracker Barrel. There's also spinach benedict and a variety of omelets to choose from for breakfast.

If your reason for dining out is as much to be cosseted as to be fed, a modified self-service restaurant like Country Gourmet may not be for you. The employees I talked to were all helpful and friendly, but once your food is on the table, refills, desserts and condiments are up to you. That said, Country Gourmet still has plenty of devoted customers who are independent enough to handle it.
Country Gourmet of Mountain View 2098 W. El Camino Real, Mountain View; (650) 962-1700; www.cgmountainview.com.
Hours: 7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday; 7 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; 8 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
Reservations - no (except for large groups) Credit cards - yes, major Valet parking - no Alcohol - no Takeout - yes Highchairs - yes Wheelchair access - restaurant; maybe not bathroom Banquet - no Catering - yes Outdoor seating - yes Noise level - low to moderate Bathroom cleanliness - fine

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