Bangkok Cuisine rich in culinary discovery Bangkok Cuisine rich in culinary discovery (July 29, 2005)

By Aimee M. Male

At some point in the past few years, Thai food surpassed Chinese take-out as the default in my house. And accordingly, I grew weary of it. Too much of an initially good thing can indeed be bad -- and more often than not, it requires a real kick to get those taste buds excited again.

I received that kick from a restaurant that is as impressive in its mastery of Thai cuisine as it is in its longevity in downtown Palo Alto. Bangkok Cuisine is an unassuming retreat into a world of wonderful Thai food, where flavors are perfectly balanced in nearly every dish on the restaurant's creative -- and lengthy -- menu.

Part of a family of Thai restaurants that dot the South Bay, Bangkok Cuisine will soon change its name to Amarin Thai, following the pattern of its sister restaurants in Mountain View and San Jose. Loyal patrons shouldn't be alarmed, as the change is in name only. After 12 years on Lytton Avenue, Bangkok Cuisine knows its craft well -- and its packed dining room proves it.

The restaurant is unique in offering a complete vegetarian and vegan menu that echoes the style and flavors of many of its regular menu offerings. Aside from the typical tofu, a product called soybean "meat" (a protein substitute that has the texture and taste of fish, for example, or roasted duck) is also used in some vegetarian dishes. Manager Jeff Kongkachandra said the inspiration for a full vegetarian menu came from his customers.

A delicate balance of spice, salt and sweetness characterizes many Thai dishes, and the use of rare, exotic ingredients such as lemongrass and galangal, a floral ginger-like root, imparts flavors that are unmistakable. While Bangkok Cuisine offers dishes that draw inspiration from all over Thailand, Kongkachandra said the restaurant modifies ethnic dishes to reflect what is in season and locally fresh.

One good example of this Thai fusion is the crispy crab with green beans ($11.95). While a native fish would typically grace this dish, Kongkachandra said soft-shell crabs just making their seasonal debut provide a delicate yet decadent companion to a rich, red curry sauce and crisp green beans.

Spicy Thai curries are not for the faint of heart, and some can be downright alarming. The menu wisely suggests diners "choose your spiciness carefully," yet the extremely friendly and helpful staff is more than happy to aid in avoiding four-alarm fires. Yellow curries are often the mildest, followed by red curries, which use dried chilies with varying levels of potency.

The hottest of all -- somewhat incongruously -- is green curry, which uses fresh chilies with the most kick. According to Kongkachandra, "medium should be OK" for most tastes. If you're feeling bold, go for the green but be sure to scoop a second helping of cooling rice on your plate.

If there is anything amiss at Bangkok Cuisine, it is that there are simply too many choices for a lover of Thai cuisine to choose from. With almost 30 options for seafood entrees alone, not to mention the separate menu dedicated entirely to vegetarian options, the restaurant requires multiple visits to truly get a taste of all there is to offer.

I'm thrilled to be thrilled by Thai food again. Regardless of what name it carries, Bangkok Cuisine is a time-tested treasure, where even the most seasoned Thai connoisseur will no doubt find something delicious to discover.
INFORMATION Bangkok Cuisine, 407 Lytton Ave. in Palo Alto; (650) 322-6533 Hours: Monday-Saturday lunch 11 a.m. - 3 p.m.; Monday-Saturday dinner 5-10 p.m.; Sunday, 5-10 p.m.

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