Easy on the curry Easy on the curry (December 30, 2005)

In food and atmosphere, restraint is a hallmark at Monsoon Cuisine of India

By Andrew MacLeod Doerschuk

Stranded on the wrong end of the right side of the tracks. At least that's how it appeared in 2003 when the stalwart Florentine Restaurant -- once the hub of Mountain View's Italian cuisine on Castro Street -- noticeably withered, and finally closed, abandoning its spot only a few dozen feet from the Caltrain tracks.

A couple years passed before landlords would fill the orphaned storefront. With little fanfare, Monsoon Cuisine of India finally opened shop there last July. After a couple visits, we learned not to expect much fanfare from these restaurateurs. Restraint is a hallmark of the Monsoon experience.

Inside is a subdued environment basking in a dim amber glow. Colors are warm and muted. A floral motif informs faint stencils on the walls and small centerpieces at each table. Indian pop music distantly floats in the air. Everything from the cutlery to the hallway tile is brand-new and tidy. The tables are distanced for a modicum of privacy. A long self-service bar dominates the rear for Monsoon's lunch buffet ($9.95), accessible through wide, ornate arches.

After being seated, we were given ice water and papadam that was unlike any I've had. Rather than flat paper-thin pancakes made of chickpea flour, these were broken up and served as crispy, curly chips dotted with specks of black pepper. We heartily scooped them into the two accompanying dips: a green mint sauce that was cool and fresh with a late lingering spiciness, and a delightfully sweet red tamarind concoction. Both were perfect for cleansing the palette, and we found ourselves dipping all sorts of things into these enticing sauces.

Neither surprising nor disappointing, the menu was veritably brimming with biryanis, curries, breads, tandori dishes, and of course, appetizers, which is where we next turned our taste buds. The vegetable pakoras ($4.95) featured cauliflower, potato and onion delicately fried in a golden chickpea batter and served atop a napkin to absorb errant oil. I wouldn't normally mention the presence of a mere paper towel, except here it illustrates the compulsion Monsoon has with proper presentation. Impeccably crisp on the first bite with a silky inner core, these fritters imparted barely a hint of oil on your tongue and fingers. All other deep-fry chefs should take note.

With expectations rising, we ordered the vegetable samosa ($4.95). Two medium-sized pyramid pastries arrived warm on a bed of torn greens, stuffed with mashed potato and peas. The spiciness registered exactly in the middle of the scale -- zippy enough to get your attention, but not enough to overtake the flavors of the savory crust and veggies. They too managed to find their way into the aforementioned dipping sauces.

Moving onto entrees, we first opted for mild over wild and ordered chicken korma ($13.95), a side of basmati rice ($1.95), and some nan bread ($1.95). So tender they barely required chewing, the bite-sized chicken pieces swam in a buttery cashew curry sauce that would satisfy any palette. Monsoon's nan delivered a desirably pliant texture with a slightly scorched crust encasing smooth white dough. We used it to sop up all remaining evidence of the korma once the rice disappeared.

It was time to put Monsoon to our personal litmus test. On the next visit we ordered lamb saag ($14.95), a traditionally mild curry that blends spinach with mustard leaves. It can be an epiphany when prepared with care, but if slightly overcooked the greens too easily adopt an unpleasant charred undertone and lumpy texture. We were happy to discover that Monsoon's lamb saag was creamy, soothing and uncomplicated with a buttery undercurrent. The spicing was judicious, nudging the spinach flavor to the forefront. Save for one gritty piece, the bite-sized lamb chunks were tender.

For a veggie side dish we ordered the aloo mattar ($9.95), which arrived as a curried stew of potatoes, peas and carrots in a tomato sauce. The spicy flavor of masala was present, but not overwhelming, and the vegetables tasted fresh. Potatoes were cooked just enough to cut with a fork, yet still offered a pleasing crunch, and the peas were plump and round, as if they had just been plucked from the garden. This dish would work just fine as a main course with some rice.

We decided to live dangerously on our third visit and ordered chicken vindaloo ($13.95), a notoriously spicy dish. Monsoon's version combines chicken cubes with chunks of potato in a thick orange-red infusion of chili, vinegar and onion, which by its very appearance delivers a warning to patrons. But within a couple bites we realized that this was one of the least explosive vindaloos in memory. We still enjoyed the tanginess of this dish, but if you live to feel the burn, or just happen to be British, you may want to ask your waiter to punch up the vindaloo. You only live once, after all.

After sampling most of our favorite Indian dishes, we decided to venture out of the box, and ordered shrimp biryani ($15.95). A complex mix of ingredients, Monsoon's biryani arrived as a generous mound of large, perfectly manicured fried shrimp, peas, green pepper, onion, cinnamon sticks, cloves, curry leaves, ginger and stealthy red chili peppers tossed into moist flavorful rice cooked in a chicken broth. Judging by its golden-brown color and sweet taste, it looked as if the onion had been pre-sauteed, which really gave this dish added potency. Of everything we tried, the shrimp biryani was the most enjoyable surprise.

But in fact, everything about Monsoon was enjoyable, from the serene surroundings and courteous service to the competitive prices and satisfying food. If you love the visceral buzz of Indian cooking, but have trouble handling unbridled heat, we highly recommend trying Monsoon's approach. You might see us there, delving further into the menu.

Monsoon Cuisine of India 110 Castro St., Mountain View (650) 961-0400 www.monsooncuisineofindia.com Hours: Daily 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 5 to 10 p.m.

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