I’d driven by El Paso Cafe for 25 years and never stopped. Its presence on El Camino Real is so slight, by the time you realize it may be a restaurant and not just a bar, El Paso might as well be in Redwood City. To get back there you’d have to make two U-turns on El Camino, a royal pain.
But when a restaurant stays in business this long, it’s doing something right. Seven months ago, Ricardo Beas bought the place from the original owners, and kept the warm hospitality. Now it’s either Ricardo’s El Camino Real or El Paso Cafe, depending on which side of the laminated menu you’re studying. A few items are gone, but basically it’s the same menu of burritos, burgers, chicken and fajitas as ever.
However, fans will notice two revolutionary changes in the rules of El Paso. Previously it was cash-only; Beas takes credit cards. And, while chips always have been free, salsa was not. Now customers will be given a complimentary dish of green (tomatillo) salsa.
Neighbors filter in, and Beas greets them. “Adios, thank you!” he says to everyone.
El Paso seats a total of 59 people in two dining rooms and on the back patio. It feels even cozier with all the Tex-Mex doodads, Indian paintings and horseshoes. Under a set of mighty longhorns is a neon sign with the word “Food,” and under that, the deck of menus. Go get one, order at the bar, and sit down.
Each of the three TV sets is likely to be tuned to sports, but without sound, thank you very much. Sangria and margaritas are on offer, but my advice is to have a beer. Dos Equis, Sierra Nevada, Spaaten, Anchor Steam and Bud are on tap.
The food is served fast, on real plates with real silverware. You would pay the same price for a burrito elsewhere, and not find a place to sit, or not want to.
They aren’t the area’s best burritos. The meats lack personality. But they run large and various.
The regular burrito ($5.95) satisfies a teenage boy, but the super-size hangs off the plate and has the sour cream, guacamole and cheese on top instead of inside. Also, it is broiled so the cheese melts. Mini Super ($5.75) is a smaller version, as the name implies. The mojado ($6.95) is doused in ranchero sauce. In the vegetarian burrito ($5.25), rice takes the place of meat.
It isn’t an all-meat menu, but close. Vegetarians who aren’t watching their dairy fats will enjoy the quesadilla ($5.95), a crisply browned flour tortilla oozing Jack cheese, sharpened with a bit of cheddar and green chilies. Dip in guacamole and sour cream. The rancho salad ($6.95) offers fresh greens, tomatoes and avocado with grilled bell peppers and onions, topped with ranch dressing and cheese. Other options are cheese enchiladas and chiles rellenos.
The best dish we tried, huevos rancheros ($8.25), is built on a foundation: corn tortilla, mashed pinto beans, another corn tortilla. Atop the second tortilla are two fluffy fried eggs and salsa fresca. Have your huevos with more beans, or with cubes of fried potatoes.
We liked the guacamole ($4.95), a softball of fresh avocado and tomato tingling with red chilies and cilantro.
Tostadas Santa Fe ($7.95) are a duet of chicken and pork. Each crisp corn tortilla is topped with meat, chopped lettuce, Monterey Jack and cheddar cheese, guacamole and sour cream and salsa fresca. You have to use a fork.
Less successful dishes aren’t bad, they’re just dull, such as chile verde chicken enchiladas ($8.95) and fajita tacos ($7.95).
A small band of ingredients show up in everything. See Tostadas Santa Fe, above.
Like Texas, El Paso Cafe caters to North American tastes, serving burgers, hot dogs, waffle-cut fries and a teriyaki chicken sandwich. Unlike Texas, El Paso Cafe is small and cute. The menu says: “All Extras Will Be Additional.”
How cute is that?
El Paso Cafe
1407 W. El Camino Real, Mountain View
(650) 961-8858
Hours:
11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Saturday in winter;
11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday in summer;
closed Sunday
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