Italian food has been so embraced by Americans that it has become one of our fast foods, homogenized by frozen pizza manufacturers and chain restaurants whose mantra is, “Tomatoes are good for you; and what’s not to like about cheese?”
Fortunately, this country has seen a resurrection of traditional Italian recipes and a renewed interest in authentic ingredients like balsamic vinegar and imported fresh mozzarella — foods that bear a resemblance in color to their supermarket cousins, but that have textures and flavors from another world. The Old World, as they say.
Dining at Sergio’s is a departure from vats of all-purpose tomato sauce into time-tested recipes and old-fashioned service and presentation — qualities that belie the relatively recent appearance of this Los Altos restaurant.
The concise menu at Sergio’s reads like a collection of family favorites, with enough range to be interesting, but a small enough scope that entrees are still competently prepared. For one thing, Sergio’s offers more veal dishes than your typical pizza-pasta parlor. And it includes little touches, like egg in the tortellini carbonara, which evoke, for me, past dinners at the home of a childhood Italian friend.
I’m happy to report that dinner and lunch here start with fresh, warm Italian bread. Apparently owner Sergio Camara believes, like me, that just because we live in the Bay Area, not every meal requires sourdough.
If you like your bread very garlicky, the pane all’aglio appetizer ($4.95) is toasted and slathered in minced garlic and a mild combo of herbs and cheese. I liked it even better with another appetizer piled on top, bruschetta-style: the funghi saltati ($6.95). The fresh mushrooms sauteed with herbs and white wine are delicious, especially with the garlic bread. I’m still trying to figure out why the dish costs $7, though. The rest of the menu seems reasonable.
Other starters include salads like the classic caprese ($6.95 at lunch). Sergio’s layers fresh tomato slices, basil and imported fresh mozzarella di bufala (that’s right — buffalo milk cheese) that’s so soft it makes lesser mozzarellas seem vulcanized. The mista salad ($5.95) is a simple mixed green salad with tomato, olives and peperoncini tossed with a sleepy Italian dressing. I preferred the caprese to the mista and the minestrone, the only soup appetizer on the menu. The minestrone ($5.95) had a pleasant broth but there’s only so much cabbage and carrots I can take in one bowl.
Since the menu features veal, I tried two veal dishes: ravioli al parmigiana ($7.95 at lunch), fresh veal ravioli baked with a Bolognese sauce and parmesan cheese; and veal sauteed with dry Marsala wine and mushrooms, vitello alla Marsala ($12.95 at lunch). The latter came with roasted potatoes and seasonal veggies on the side, of which the potatoes were hit and miss: lighter and less greasy at suppertime than at lunch. The ravioli were tender and flavorful even under a tomato sauce, and just the right size for lunch. The veal Marsala was also tender, with a stronger flavor of both veal and wine. I think, for that reason, the dish was not enormous.
For non-veal eaters, the chicken parmigiana ($13.95 at dinner) is an excellent choice, with juicy chicken in a crunchy breading, baked with mozzarella and a zesty marinara sauce, something many restaurants fail to master. Roasted potatoes (yum) and seasonal veggies on the side round out a hearty dinner. Also satisfying is the meat lasagna ($12.95 at dinner), whose pasta and Bolognese sauce both taste lovingly homemade. Meatball slices within add heartiness and savoriness.
I’ve mentioned before that one of the best tiramisu I’ve tasted in the Bay Area was at Kapp’s, a Mountain View sports bar, but I think Sergio’s has them beat. This light and flavorful dessert even humbled the chocolate torta, which would have been a winner on any other day. But the New York-style cheesecake dusted with cinnamon, which didn’t need berry puree sauce to disguise any faults, could give it a run for its money. Desserts run in the very reasonable $5 range.
The drink selection, in keeping with the main menu, is compact. Sparkling Italian waters and sodas, juices and coffee run in the $2 to $3 range, and even the decaf coffee was decent. Wines are also available.
You might think a small, minimally embellished box of a room filled with diners on a Friday night would be noisy, but this was not the case at Sergio’s. You probably want to make a reservation for weekend nights, but midday lunches are more accommodating for those just dropping in.
Although the food and appearance of the patrons suggest Sergio’s is more of a Nice Dinner Out place (I didn’t see any children, for example), prices are moderate enough that it needn’t be saved for special occasions.
Sergio’s Italian Cuisine
244 State Street, Los Altos
(650) 948-5758
Hours:
Lunch: Monday-Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Dinner: Seven days a week, 4:30 to 10 p.m.
