Chennai, on the Bay of Bengal in eastern India, is considered the “Capital of the South” and the historic hub of the East India Company trading outpost, back when the city was known as Madras. Like the fabric, Chennai Kings in Mountain View mixes diverse ingredients for a unique and pleasant whole.
While mainstays like naan, samosas and garam masala are common in the north, South Indian cuisine incorporates ingredients from its more tropical clime, such as coconut, rice, tamarind, plantains and rice. Typical dishes include dosa (lentil and rice crepe), idli (steamed lentil rice cakes), rasam (tomato, tamarind and lentil soup) and sambar (spicy lentil and vegetable stew). But that doesn’t even start to clarify the multitude of nuances in Indian cuisine, where preparation of even classic dishes can vary from district to district and even from household to household.
If you are ready to explore the incredible diversity of South Indian cuisine, the 2-year-old Chennai Kings is an excellent place to start. Tucked away in a small strip mall just off Castro Street, the unassuming storefront contains an open floor plan with simple wooden tables and chairs and a small walk-up counter for take-out orders.
Walls are painted in bold shades of curry and saffron, dotted with large, colorful prints and a collage of black and white photos depicting scenes from Tamil Nadu, the state where Chennai is located. Two large TV screens air simultaneous and apparently nonstop broadcasts of sports and Bollywood-like soap operas. Though effort has been put into the overall look and feel of the place, Chennai Kings’ simple decor is certainly not the draw.
An ambitious menu features mostly vegetarian offerings with a smattering of chicken, goat, mutton and fish dishes. There are a number of curries, biryani and appetizers, and the kitchen serves everything on the menu at all times. There are so many choices, it’s advantageous to gather a group and sample a little of everything.
A long list of dosas make a great visual impression. Light and crisp, some are served flat and folded over tasty mixtures of meat and/or vegetables. Fillings lean toward potatoes and onions, adding on items like paneer (Indian cheese), lentils or eggs. One of the simplest, the ghee cone dosa ($7.99), was close to a foot tall, rolled into a tipi that could easily serve as a child’s parasol. It was accompanied by small bowls of moderately spicy sambar, creamy coconut chutney and peanut chutney for dipping. At first I could only eyeball the thing, as did several people at nearby tables, to gauge my strategy. Then I managed to break off pieces, which were delicious on their own and even more so when used to ladle up the sauces.
Another show-stopper is the channa batura ($8.99), which arrived at our table inflated to the size of a volleyball. One poke and the globe collapses, leaving you with light dough to scoop out the accompanying curry sauce.
Appetizers lean toward vegetarian options and come in portions generous enough to serve as a full meal. Sesame gobi Manchurian ($6.99) comprises batter-dipped cauliflower, chilies and onion drenched in a spicy-sweet red sauce, though I remain befuddled as to what gave it its “Manchurian” aspect. All the same, it was a delectable — and at times searingly hot — start.
Also highly recommended is the spinach dhal ($8.99), a soupy mix of lentils and spinach jazzed up with spices and red chilies. Coupled with the restaurant’s stupendous tuticorin parotta ($5.99), it’s an ideal and simple warm-up for these recent cold, rainy days. Parotta are soft and flaky savory Indian flatbreads that look something like carnival funnel cakes, drizzled with oil and fried until golden brown.
The Malabar fish curry ($12.99) consists of chunks of whitefish slathered with thick, piquant golden sauce. Be sure to order a side of rice ($2.99) or bread to sop up the very last of the flavors.
For those not sure of how to order, the best solution might be to try the lunchtime thali. For $12.99 you get a shiny metal platter filled with rice, two kinds of curry, bread, yogurt and condiments, so you can sample a variety of specialties.
The restaurant carries a small selection of beers and wine, as well as chai, rose milk and sweet, salty or mango lassi ($2.99), a thick yogurt drink that nicely counterbalances the hot spiciness of some of the dishes. Lassi is also filling, so we skipped the sweets on offer, like ice creams and puddings.
Lunchtime attracts a diverse clientele, from businessmen on their cell phones to clusters of young hipsters and mothers with young children, punctuated by a steady stream of people stopping in to pick up their to-go orders. The large number of Indian patrons speaks to the restaurant’s quality and authenticity.
This insider appeal points to a small problem: If you’re not familiar with bhaji, pakoda or thokku already, the menu will not do much to enlighten you. However, the servers were exceptionally charming and patient, explaining ingredients and making thoughtful suggestions. Service, in fact, is very courteous and friendly, from a prompt and genuine greeting as soon as visitors walk in the door to water glasses that remain filled to the brim. Prices seem fair for the most part, considering the portions, and dishes are served on either metal platters or colorful Fiestaware-like plates, which adds a bit of panache to the place.
Chennai Kings has two other, larger branches at Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco and in San Jose. The Mountain View outpost received a L’Assiette mention in the 2017 Michelin guide in recognition of the quality of its food. I agree.
Chennai Kings
856 W. El Camino Real
Mountain View
650-938-1333
chennaikings.us
Hours: Sunday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday-Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Credit cards: Yes
Reservations: Yes
Catering: Yes
Delivery: Yes
Outdoor seating: No
Parking: Adjacent lot
Alcohol: Beer and wine
Happy Hour: Monday-Friday, 3–6:30 p.m. and Friday-Sunday after 9:30 p.m.
Wheelchair access: Yes
Noise level: Low
Bathroom cleanliness: Excellent
