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San Francisco has remained somewhat elusive, despite years of my inner adventurer exploring her streets. Where is Bernal Heights again, please? The Richmond District stands differently somehow – an ever-so-entertaining neighborhood I’ve remembered, researched and revisited many times. Home to multicultural influences from Russia, Ireland and China, the area north of Golden Gate Park and south of the Presidio boasts some of the cities best ethnic shops and eateries, bordered by some of the cities best outdoor junkie adventure just blocks away. Take time to explore. Start your play day with breakfast or lunch at one of the many exciting bakeries or family restaurants. Here’s a map of possibilities including an hour or so walk around the highlights. Your tour could last all day or in my case – years. I learned cool new spots this time out.
Start at Arsicault, voted Best New Bakery by Bon Appétit a decade ago, it’s still a winner. A French bakery renowned for ethereal buttery croissants, Kouign amann (crispy pastry) and a simple mission – “to serve the food we love.” With hours 8AM – 3PM most days – arrive early – they sell out of popular items.
Next stop is the classic Green Apple Books & Music, founded in 1967 by Richard Savoy, at the time a 25 year-old ex-army soldier with a “deep love of the written word.” Get lost in this survivor of new and used books, surrounded by old wood shelves that smell like wisdom and tell good stories if you just stop to listen.
Walk west on Clement St. to Kamei Restaurant Supply and New May Wah Supermarket.
If you ever bought a $5 chef’s knife in one of my classes – Kamei is where it came from. This is a cooks fantasy! Aisles of colorful plates, equipment, Asian what-is-thats?, affordable artsy toothpicks for catering, and chef knives I’ve used for 20 years. Students love their sharp, cheap blade and easy-to-maintain edge. FYI: The price went up. May Wah Supermarket is Ranch 99’s brother from another mother – but bigger, better and crazier, including a fresh meat and fish market with lots of hollering. Going to these to stores could easier take an hour or longer. Don’t buy too much this time because we hike next.
It’s a 10 minute-ish walk to Park Presidio Blvd. Here you can jump on the Crosstown Trail, a city gem connecting four corners of San Francisco with hidden trails, public parks, shopping corridors, tiled stairways, and community gardens. Walk, run, or bike in all directions to see the City in a new way. With 30+ miles of designated “trail,” you can spend a few days just following the paths. Today I walked around Mountain Lake, and crossed under Highway 1 into a secret Presidio entrance I’ve never been to. It’s a wonderful part of the City. Who knew?
When ready, retrace your steps out of the Presidio and back to your car. Save the remaining Crosstown Trail for your next playday. Make a quick stop into The Spanish Table; veteran food, wine and cookware importer of hard-to-find goods from Spain and Portugal, before ending in France for dinner at Chapeau!
Executive chef Phillippe Gardelle and Chef de Cuisine Andrew Gardelle are a father son team who welcome you to the grand reopening of their family restaurant. Drink Master, bartender (and mom) Ellen Gardelle greats us that afternoon with a refreshing Blueberry Gin Gimlet at an affordable price. Ellen is passionate about food and wine pairings during dinner and brings perfect matches of French and California bottles. She teaches me that the Pouilly-Fume’ and Sancerre are not the same wine, but similar dry whites from the Loire Valley of France which means I’ll love Pouilly-Fume’ (and I do) because I love Sancerre like I love Viognier also from the same region. This all surprises me still.
Chef bakes fresh baguettes daily, serving warm with butter and beautiful appetizers.
Family recipes include classics Cassoulet ($44) and Moules Frites ($22/$40) alongside new takes on old classics.
And for the plant-forward among us, a southern France ratatouille with perfectly-creamy-crisp A+ polenta croutons ($38). I wanted more! Strong dish but needed protein. Even though I order vegetarian, I still want protein as part of my entree.
Delightful dessert
In a world of over-the-top food management and who-can-out-perform-who in pursuit of our eater-tainment, it’s comforting to know I can go hang out with family, at a sunny bar at happy hour, and get home cookin with fashion and style.
N’oubliez pas la baguette fraichement sortie du four. Merci.
Oh please don’t forget the fresh baked baguette.
- photos courtesy of LSIC
