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Headed to any national parks this summer? I hope your reservations are in order. We continue Travelin’ Solo – Utah or Bust with six days in Zion National Park, designated as a national monument in 1909 and national park in 1919. With over 4.5 million people visiting annually, Zion is one of the top 5 most visited U.S. national parks. Guess where the other four are?
Entering from the eastern (quieter) side, I stop at Thunderbird Restaurant in Mt Carmel for their “ho-made pies.” Bakery wars is always fun on the road – pitting one new sweet shop against the next. Gives me a professional excuse to eat more sugar. The Food Party! gives Thunderbird a shout out for effort, but the pies I tasted that day – not very memorable. Stop anyway – it’s a fun see.
About 1/2 hour down the road in Zion, Watchman Campground was home base for the week. One of three camps in the park, Watchman is open year-round with reservations 6-months in advance. If you are considering national parks always find out when permits and campsite reservations are released and plan to commit early for best results. The tent-only area in Watchman offers big sites away from the parking lot – quite lovely. You are in, but out of, all the action. Walking distance to the Visitors Center and pedestrian bridge into Springdale,
I highly suggest bringing or renting a bike to get around the park. This allows you access to the main park road – only open to busy shuttle buses. Hats off to the NPS – shuttles are fully electric with a space-age move-groove, but packed. Put your non-electric bike on the shuttle, or enjoy the 6 mile one-way-not-bad-up-hill with a totally fun 6-mile downhill back to camp. Everybody rents electric, so a regular bike makes you an automatic road celebrity. Best time to ride is golden hour. Pack a picnic dinner and have the place to yourself and God.
My first hike was Angels Landing – so popular now you need a permit to summit (apply 4 months in advance). It’s considered one of the most dangerous hikes in the US, but I don’t know. Have you done it? I was petrified at the start but quickly got my bearings. 5.4 miles round trip, elevation gain +1,500 feet, 3 – 4 hours to complete. Like Windy Hill from Portola Road parking lot to Skyline and back + 300 feet more up and down. Not that bad, especially if you do Windy Hill.
Climb Walters Wiggles, twenty-one switchbacks up to the final half-mile where your permit kicks in. Ascend a knife-edge ridge using chains bolted into the rock with 1,000-foot drop-offs on either side. I think it looks scarier than it is, but 17 people have fallen to their death since 2004 so what do I know? Take care and hold on tight. Your first challenge is getting the permit.
I also won a permit for The Subway but chose to do The Narrows instead (no permit needed, more on The Subway later). I’d never done either hike. For an early May Narrows trip, $56 for the suggested gear was worth it. I was skeptical about my “old people feet” hiking in rented shoes, but the entire package (waders, neoprene socks, shoes and stick) worked very well. I wore shorts and a light jacket under the rented waders and stayed comfortable and completely dry. Chose NOT to rent a waterproof backpack, but hung a dry bag onto the suit for phone and lunch, using a Carmelback for agua and waterproof snacks like apples and hard boiled eggs.
Take the shuttle to the last stop and walk a paved path 1 mile (bring Tevas – stash in a bush). The river entrance is busy and shallow but quickly gets less populated and deep. Use your river skills to stay out of the deeper parts (darker = deeper). But wow – the way cold water feels on your skin next to the wader was shocking and a little addictive – a spa cold plunge without the wet. Spectacular journey overall – a must do once in your life. Enjoy the rock layers – some over 275 million years old. The narrowest point is just 20 feet wide, flanked by 1,000-foot cliffs jutting up on either side.
I walked about 4.5 hours upstream, passing Wall Street but not quite to “the end” where you must turnaround without a permit. 4 hours back (downstream faster). 8 challenging hours for me, but turn around at any point. The hike is pretty flat with some bouldering farther upstream. You need some upper body strength and a sense of balance as you maneuver through the not-always-clear-to-the-bottom water, with faith you and your stick will keep you upright. I felt comfortable hiking alone, although someone was usually in sight. Appreciated Trader Joe’s olive packs along the way. Perfectly-sized waterproof salty kick.
Exhausted at the end, I shuttled back with a beeline for crispy onions rings with blue cheese and a well-earned home brew at Zion Brew Pub, the Springdale restaurant near camp. (live music Tuesday and Friday night). Propping my feet on the rail, I air-toasted the effort. Good job Stec – you’re not done yet!
Next time we head to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. And on the way… homemade cookies!
Top 5 Most Visited U.S. National Parks (2024)
Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Tennessee & North Carolina
Over 13 million visitors
Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona
Over 6 million visitors
Zion National Park, Utah
Over 5 million visitors
Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho
4.8 million visitors
Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado
4.6 million visitors
- photos courtesy of LSIC
