Tina’s Kusina means “Tina’s Kitchen,” of course, and the restaurant’s Tagalog name aptly reflects the lyrical personality and Filipino heritage of its owner, Tina Thompson.
Inside her downtown establishment, hand-painted vines climb the walls and potted plants punctuate an L-shaped seating area. On the other side of a display case, Thompson herself hustles about preparing hearty dishes — mostly stews and meat recipes she lifted from sisters and cookbooks and toyed with over a matter of decades. When the place isn’t busy, she might come out front and chat a little.
Although this is the first time she’s served the public directly, Thompson has a background in the culinary industry, having managed the cafeteria at Onizuka Air Force Base at the foot of Moffett Field for three-and-a-half years. But when the State Department decided in 2005 to gradually decommission the air station, Thompson’s business started to suffer. She finally abandoned the franchise and began hunting for other opportunities.
A year and a half ago, when the short-lived Kauaii BBQ Grill shut it doors at the corner of Dana and Hope streets, Thompson moved in and started cooking. Funny — it’s a block from Mountain View’s restaurant row, and across the street from the busy dance club Alberto’s, yet it feels like a quiet area where neighboring businesses close up shop at five o’clock.
Thompson’s eclectic menu is divided into four sections: pan-Asian plates like chicken teriyaki, American classics like fried chicken, a handful of sandwiches, and Filipino favorites offered as combinations that run $4.50 for one, $5.99 for two and $6.99 for a choice of three small entrees. Served with two scoops of sticky white rice and a big mound of steamed broccoli, cauliflower and carrot slices, these Filipino combos offer some of the best bargains I’ve seen downtown for lunch or dinner.
We dove into the delicious chicken adobo, which fell off the bone. Traditionally prepared dry, Thompson prepares hers in soy sauce, garlic and vinegar, creating a tangy, salty-sweet concoction that soaks nicely into rice. The slow-cooked beef afritada was equally tender, with its red pepper strips, potato chunks and carrot slices swimming alongside chunks of beef in an earthy tomato gravy.
Our BBQ pork ribs were boiled until tender, and served on the bone with a minimum amount of sauce, prompting the juicy pork flavor to play a leading role. But their thin coat of sauce was tangy, employing sweet Filipino ketchup for its base.
Other dishes couldn’t have been more fundamental. The fried tilapia was a thin fillet with a crunchy egg batter and fluffy white fish. Served only with sliced lemon, it was dry to the touch and beautiful in its simplicity. The kalua pork was served off the bone, falling apart and very juicy. It tasted smoky, fresh and satisfying.
We weren’t crazy about Tina’s chicken curry. Its yellow coconut sauce was far too mild and the curry taste was muted. (In truth, everything we tried at Tina’s Kusina was mild, but in every other case the flavors remained rich and robust.) I admit we could have made greater use of the selection of sauces and spices, which was so extensive it required its own table. Next time, perhaps.
Tina’s Kusina is a non-alcoholic establishment, which might turn off a few diners. But here’s the kicker: Three of us feasted on all of the items above, then couldn’t finish an enormous portion of gooey home-made brownie bites ($4), and paid a grand total of $25.54. You almost can’t cook food at home this inexpensively.
So who cares if they don’t serve beer? Visit a bar if you must. But for three adults to eat so well for around $25, a cup of tea with such a delicious dinner seems downright civilized.
Tina’s Kusina
698 W Dana St., Mountain View
(650) 254-1788
Hours:
Monday through Friday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Reservations: No
Credit Cards: Yes
Alcohol: No
Highchairs: Yes
Banquet: Yes
Outdoor seating: Yes
Noise level: Low
Bathroom Cleanliness: Good
Parking: Street
