This is a tale of two Mexican eateries, both in Mountain View, both named Los Charros, both owned by brothers, Carlos and Javier Sepulveda. While the menu is nearly the same at both locations, there is a world of difference in ambiance, food preparation and service.
The original Los Charros, now in its twelfth year, is the taqueria on Dana Street just off Castro. Los Charros, the restaurant on El Camino, opened two and half years ago on the site of the long gone (but for the memories) Ken’s House of Pancakes.
The name Los Charros, loosely defined, refers to cowboys from Jalisco, according to Carlos Sepulveda. Outside Jalisco, a cowboy is a “vaquero.” The los charros of Jalisco dress colorfully and ornately, participate in a type of rodeo they developed, and are master horsemen. The horseshoe and spur is the logo deployed in Los Charros locales.
On recent visits to both locations, I preferred just about everything at the taqueria. The El Camino restaurant has a liquor license, though, and is large enough that a cantina operates evenings in an area separate from the main dining room. Live mariachi musicians serenade patrons on Friday nights.
Aesthetically, the cantina was the only part of the restaurant I found attractive. It is narrow with a long bar, arched doorways, cool brown tile floor and subdued lighting, and well stocked with liquors and tequilas. The main dining area, though, struck me as a Mexican-themed oasis I might find off I-80 in Nebraska.
The taqueria, on the other hand, had personality galore. It’s small and cramped, with the menu on a wall chalkboard. The tables and chairs are simple and well worn but not in disrepair. One wall has a Mexican mural flanked by sombreros. The floor is tiled for function, not form, with extra chairs and boosters stacked in a corner.
It seemed that most patrons at the taqueria ordered at the counter, paid for their orders, and had their food brought to them, although table service and printed menus are available. The wait staff artfully dodged and weaved their way through the clogged space to deliver hot, fresh food.
Back on El Camino, I was taken aback my first visit to the restaurant. As a solo noontime diner, I was seated at a table for six (I might have looked like I had an entourage of imaginary friends). Not only was the table ridiculously big for my needs, the receptionist placed the menu so that I faced the wall. There were few other patrons.
Fact is, on that particular noon hour, staff outnumbered customers 9:7. Despite that, I had to flag my server for the check and ask again to have the check taken to make change. On subsequent visits, the place was busier but the service was hit or miss, sometimes prompt, other times lacking.
I love chili rellenos, ($9.50) and tried versions at both locales. The taqueria’s were golden brown, crispy and oozed hot melting cheese when cut. The restaurant’s ($8.25) were soggy, as if they had sat too long before being served.
Most orders, at both locations, came with refried beans topped with melted cheese, rice, warm tortillas, guacamole, sour cream and salsa. The staff at both locales brought fresh crisp tortilla chips and two salsas to the table soon after I was seated.
I loved the super burrito ($5.75) at the taqueria. I ordered pork, although chicken, beef and vegetarian options are available. The meat was tender, not too dry, and was rolled full of rice, beans, spices and cheese.
Successful too were the super tacos ($3.50 each) at the taqueria. I opted for chicken and pork; both had a kiss of piquancy to them, with lots of meat and gooey, elastic cheese. Physically, they were easy to handle and eat without the filling falling out or the taco shell disintegrating.
Also from the taqueria, the carne asada ($9.50) with grilled steak, beans, rice, guacamole and sour cream was delightfully filling. The meat was tender, with just enough fat to give it flavor but not enough to give me concern.
At the El Camino restaurant, the chili verde with beans and rice ($10.95) was unlike any I had ever encountered. Cubes of tender pork sat in a pool of lifeless, unappealing green sauce. I barely managed two bites.
The chicken tamales ($8.95) and chicken enchiladas with red sauce ($8.25) passed muster, at least. But the El Camino restaurant needs to work on quality control.
Los Charros Restaurant
89 W. El Camino Real, Mountain View
(650) 625-8374
www.loscharrosrestaurant.com
Hours: 7 a.m.-2 a.m. daily
Los Charros Taqueria
854 W. Dana St., Mountain View
(650) 969-1464
Hours: 6 a.m.-11 p.m. daily
