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Update 7/15/ 25: Everyone is so sad about the loss of this national treasure. I hold out hope the old stones of our grand hotel live on.
The annual National Park Budget is $3.6 billion, while it’s economic output totals $55 billion. I wondered if budget cuts would be noticeable visiting two of the country’s most popular parks during Travelin’ Solo – Utah or Bust. I repeatedly asked park employees if they were sufficiently staffed. People voiced hesitation about the summer, but at least in May, things seemed to be running smoothly. I don’t understand the reason for cutting the budget of such a good-vibe money maker, but here we are. If you visit any national parks this season, we’d love to hear about your experience.
On the way to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, it was an unexpected surprise to run into homemade cookie heaven – in the middle of nowhere. Centered at the junction of US 89A and AZ 67 in the tiny community of Jacob Lake – the Jacob Inn is quite a hot spot. Established in 1923, it has a hotel, store, cafe, gas station and bakery known for “world famous” pastries and extra thick S’more cookie and blackberry milkshakes. Taking the lead in Bakery Wars, the selection is vast. $2.35 ea. or 4 for $8.40 choose from options like Lemon Raspberry, Chocolate Raspberry, Snickerdoodle and Lemon Zucchini.
Drive 45 miles south and arrive at the Park’s entrance. Nearing 8,200 ft, the North Rim rises 1,000 feet higher than the South Rim. It takes about a four hours to drive between them. If you prefer to walk, you are looking at a 24 mile or 12-ish hours rim-to-rim jaunt with 6,000+ feet in elevation change. I met a guy in Zion who did South to North Rim AND BACK in the same day, starting at 5AM and ending at 10 PM! The most popular walk is the North Kaibab trail, descending 14.2 miles into the canyon. Other trails were pretty empty. Top hike on my dance card was Roosevelt Point, named for Teddy Roosevelt who loved and helped protect the canyon. Short but dramatic, unfortunately my pictures don’t capture the awe. It reminded me of a less crowded Angels Landing.
I camped at the main campground which opens in mid May. When I heard some of the tent-only sites were on the rim, I thought they were kidding. They weren’t. To score one of these prized sites, book early – 6 months in advance.
The Park’s lodge is fabulous – built in 1927-1928 by architect Gilbert Stanley Underwood (who also designed the lodges in Yosemite and Zion). Please check out the restaurant with amazing views, regional ingredients, and vegetarian/vegan options. There’s also a saloon with indoor/outdoor seating and post office on site, as well as many different cabin stays to choose from.
- photos courtesy of LSIC
